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Dictionary of Fruits

The relationship between the human species and the
fruits of flowering plants is far older even than the
human species itself. The skulls of the earliest
hominids testify to the fact that they were omnivores.
They had teeth specialized for the chewing of plant
material as well as teeth designed for the ripping and
tearing of animal flesh, just like we do. Along with
animals (including insects), fruits were the primary
constituents of our earliest ancestor’s diets. Fruits
were the first plants cultivated by humans as well.
Early humans practiced the age-old arts of hunting
and gathering. This survival strategy requires a nomadic
lifestyle as even a small population of humans will
quickly strip almost any terrain bare of naturally
occurring nutrition after a short time, and so they were
required to move on every once in a while. Eventually
they would return to the area they had foraged a few
years earlier, and they must have been surprised to find
a lush garden growing where their old potty used to be.
Thus began agriculture.
They quickly learned that it was easier to plant a
few fruit trees than to constantly go off searching for
more. The seeds of most fruits are easy to germinate,
require little or no active cultivation given proper
growing conditions, and many will produce fruit for
generations. Fruit-bearing plants produce a prodigious
amount of caloric output (pronounced “food”) relative to
their small requirement for caloric input (pronounced
“labor”), so the cultivation of fruits produces more
return on investment than any other survival strategy.
The days of nomadic foraging were a thing of the past.
Thank goodness.
I say thank goodness because this new technology,
which we now call agriculture, motivated people to stay
put long enough to actually accomplish something. It
allowed them to domesticate wild animals which could be
pastured and penned, a tricky proposition for any tribe
of nomads whose animals surely would have wandered off
in search of food while their masters were busy
wandering around looking for food of their own. It
allowed the development of small villages, which grew
into towns, and eventually into cities. This led to the
development of trading centers and the beginnings of
commerce. It freed people from the all-consuming effort
to get enough to eat every day and allowed them to
pursue other interests. This specialization resulted in
the development of the arts, new technologies, organized
religion, governmental and military organizations, and
every type of professional endeavor. All these factors
combined to form what we know as civilization, and it
all began with the planting of a few fruit trees. The
rest is, quite literally, history.
You Say Tomato, I Say... Vegetable
Any botanist will tell you that a tomato is a fruit
because, according to the technical definition, a fruit
is the seed-carrying organ, or ovary, of a flowering
plant, or angiosperm. And any child will tell you that a
tomato is a vegetable because... well, just because.
For the purpose of this article, I’m with the kid. Yes,
I know that tomatoes (and peppers, squashes, and
eggplants, to name just a few) are really fruits, but
I’m writing this thing for cooks, not for botanists.
Every cook knows the difference between a fruit and a
vegetable, and that is the standard I will be using
here.
What distinguishes fruits from vegetables in the
cook’s mind is the inherent natural sweetness of fruits,
and even though there is no denying the many great
savory dishes that are made with fruits of many kinds,
everyone knows that fruits usually arrive at the dinner
table in the form of a dessert. Apples, oranges,
peaches, and pears all make wonderful sweet concoctions,
and although many vegetables can be used to make similar
sweets, it isn’t their natural tendency. Who wants
another scoop of eggplant ice cream? See what I mean?
Fortunately, the vast majority of the things we think
of as fruits are really and truly fruits. All of the
fruits in your supermarket (with the exception of
rhubarb) are actually the seed-bearing organs of the
plants they came from, so you can expect to see them
included in the Dictionary of Fruits. You will not find
entries for such things as tomatoes, and squashes there
because, even though they are technically fruits, they
will be dealt with “All About Vegetables.” Please stay
tuned.
So there. I’ll say it one more time: for the purpose
of this essay, things that are technically fruits but
are treated as vegetables by cooks will not be included
in this essay because... well, just because.
Buying Fruits
Most of the readers of this
article are fortunate to
live in places where many fresh fruits are available
year round, regardless of whether they are “in season”
or not. We owe this to the international commerce in
fruits and other produce which allows North Americans to
have fresh peaches in January and Australians to have
fresh strawberries in August. Thanks to advances in
breeding, harvesting, storing, and transportation, fresh
fruits make their way from the orchards of the southern
hemisphere to the northern hemisphere while it suffers
through the colder months, and vice versa. The ability
to transport fresh produce over such great distances and
have it arrive ready for market was considered
economically unfeasible, if not technically impossible,
only a few decades ago, and this is truly one of the
more remarkable, yet often overlooked, accomplishments
of our modern society.
However, as much as I enjoy the luxury of having
fresh mangos, peaches, pears, and grapes available
whenever I want them, I also know that the best (and
least expensive) produce arrives in my markets when it
is in season in my own hemisphere, and the best of those
are grown as close to my home as possible. This is
because, in spite of the miraculous advances in
technology that I already mentioned, there is just no
fruit better than fresh fruit, ripened in the field and
still warm from the sun.
The moral here is simple: buy the freshest locally
grown fruits available in your area. Farmer’s markets,
roadside stands, and many small, independently owned
groceries offer the best of locally grown fruits. Even
if they aren’t grown within several thousand miles
(many, many kilometers) of your location, the best
quality fruits will be available during their natural
season-fresh strawberries will always be best in spring,
regardless of where they are grown.
When buying fruits, keep in mind that most of them
will continue to ripen after you have bought them. I
usually buy two or three bananas from a ripe bunch, and
two or three from a green bunch because I don’t want
them all to be at their peak at the same time. Many
other (but not all) fruits continue to ripen after they
have been picked, including apricots, melons, mangos,
papayas, peaches, pears, nectarines, persimmons, plums,
and to a lesser degree, strawberries and pineapples.
I give specific information on individual fruits as
appropriate in the Dictionary of Fruits, but the
conventional wisdom dictates that we should buy fresh
fruits in season and from local growers whenever
possible. Buy fresh fruits often and in small quantities
to avoid spoilage and waste, and store them under
optimal conditions.
Storing Fruits
The objective in storing fruit is to maintain it in
its edible state until we are ready to eat it. In other
words, if it spoils before we are ready to eat it, we
have failed. So let’s take a look at fruit spoilage,
okay?
Fruits spoil because of two processes. The first is
the result of microbial activity, and the microbes in
question are primarily molds and, to a lesser degree,
bacteria. These things are in the air around us, and all
they need is a nice warm place with plenty of water and
sugar to launch an invasion on an unsuspecting fruit.
The skin is the fruit’s primary defense against
microbial invasion, and this is why it is so important
to treat ripe fruits with care. The slightest bruise or
breach of the skin will provide a foothold for the
microscopic invaders, and once they have established
themselves in any small section of the fruit, their
ultimate conquest of the entire fruit is assured. This
fuzzy green invasion will spread and the armies of
microbes will grow and ultimately overtake nearby fruits
if not controlled, and this is exactly how one bad apple
spoils the whole barrel.
The action of enzymes and other chemical processes in
the fruit also leads to spoilage, only this type of
spoilage is more commonly thought of as over-ripening.
It is characterized by the fruit becoming discolored,
soft (often mushy), and with a distinctly “off” (and
often slightly alcoholic) flavor and aroma. Either way,
spoiled fruit is not good. Both of these processes are
slowed dramatically by refrigeration, but refrigeration
also stops the ripening of fruits that aren’t quite
ready to eat. So what should we do with the fruit we
bring home?
I’m glad you asked. Fruits should be stored at room
temperature until they are ripe. Storing them in a
loosely closed paper bag will speed the ripening
process, and including an apple in the bag will further
hasten ripening due to the ethylene gas that apples (and
most other fruits) produce. No one is quite sure how the
ethylene does this, but it does.
Once they are ripe, fruits should either be eaten or
refrigerated. Store fruits in a loosely closed paper
bag-plastic bags will retain moisture and speed the
spoiling process-in the bottom of the refrigerator. The
vegetable crisper drawer in most refrigerators is ideal
for this purpose. Most fruits will keep for weeks, and
apples will keep for up to six months, if properly
refrigerated. Even bananas will stop ripening in the
refrigerator, and although the skin will turn black,
ripe bananas will remain firm for several days beyond
their normal life expectancy.
Due to the high water and sugar content of most
fruits, they are also excellent candidates for freezing.
Whether frozen whole or cut into small pieces, they will
keep for several months if frozen in airtight containers
or plastic bags. Be aware that the expansion of the
water in the cells of the fruits will cause cellular
damage and the thawed fruit will have lost the crispness
of the original. As a result, thawed frozen fruit is not
ideal for eating raw, but it can be cooked and treated
exactly like fresh fruit in baking and making preserves
with excellent results.
Finally, you should never wash your fruit when you
bring it home from the store. Even brief exposure to
water will leach vitamins and sugars from the fruit
(especially berries), and washing will remove the
natural and man-made protective coatings on many fruits,
thus making them more vulnerable to microbial invasion.
Residual water will also create the ideal environment
for spoilage, so wash your fruit just before you eat it.
Preserving Fruits
Preserved fruits have been an important part of our
diet for thousands of years, especially in colder
northern climates where preserving and storing foods of
all kinds was necessary to survive the harsh winters.
Over the ages many methods of preserving fruit have been
developed by people from all climates eager to extend
the availability of fruits beyond their short natural
season.
The high sugar content of most fruits makes them
excellent candidates for many types of preservation, but
their high water content also makes them excellent
candidates for spoilage, as we have already discussed.
Most methods for preserving fruits, therefore, aim to
eliminate as much of their water content as possible. A
thorough discussion of these various techniques is
beyond the scope of this article, and I suggest that you
consult a good cookbook devoted to the subject for
complete instructions on preserving fruits.
That said, here is a quick look at the many methods
of preserving fruits:
Dried Fruits - Many fruits, including apples, pears.
peaches, nectarines, apricots, figs, grapes, berries,
and bananas can be dried and stored almost indefinitely.
Apples should be peeled, cored, and thinly sliced before
drying. Pears and stone fruits such as peaches need only
be halved and cored or pitted, and bananas should be
peeled and thinly sliced prior to dehydration. Grapes,
figs, and berries can be dried whole. Commercial
dehydrators are available to the home cook, but you
don’t need a special appliance to dry fruits at home.
You can place the prepared fruits on a wire rack and dry
them in an oven set on the lowest setting.
Fruit Leathers - A variation on drying, any fruit can
be peeled, seeded, and puréed in an electric blender or
food processor. The resulting purée is then spread in a
thin layer on parchment or wax paper and air dried or
dried as described above.
Candied Fruits - Also known as crystallized or glace
fruits, this process involves cooking fruits in a sugar
syrup before drying. Suitable fruits included citrus
(both the flesh and rinds), stone fruits, and
pineapples.
Fruit Jams, Jellies, and Preserves - Most fruits can be
cooked with sugar (and sometimes some pectin to aid
thickening) to make jams, jellies, and preserves. If
done properly and stored in sterilized containers, these
will last almost indefinitely. They can be eaten as
spoon sweets or used as toppings for toast or bread and
as fillings for pastries. Jellies are made only with the
juice of the fruits, while jams and preserves are made
from the entire fruit. The difference between jams and
preserves varies depending on whom you ask, but the
general consensus is that preserves have larger pieces
of fruit than jams, which are more like a fruit purée.
Fruits in Alcohol - Eighteenth century seafarers
discovered that the fruits they were transporting could
be preserved in barrels of rum during their long
voyages. Any fruit can be preserved if stored in an
airtight container and covered with rum, brandy, vodka,
or other distilled spirit. These will last for many
months, and new fruits can be added to the container as
its contents are consumed.
Pickled Fruits - Pickling fruit is largely a forgotten
art, but in the past many fruits were preserved in a
sweet vinegar solution, often with spices such as cloves
and cinnamon added. Suitable fruits include stone
fruits, figs, berries, and of course, watermelon rind.
The Dictionary of
Fruits
Before I begin the Dictionary of Fruits, let me state
that I believe it may be the most comprehensive listing
of fruits ever compiled by anyone anywhere. Now let me
qualify that remark.
More than 230,000 species of angiosperms
(flower-bearing plants, remember?) have been identified
by scientists, and I’m sure there are a few the
scientists haven’t gotten around to yet. Therefore, to
assemble a truly comprehensive list of fruits would be
beyond the ability even of people much smarter than me
who work much harder (and for up to eight hours in a
single day!) than I do. I like to call these super
achievers “normal people.”
We have also agreed that many fruits won’t be
included here because they are fruits that we think of
as vegetables. Actually, I decided that all by myself,
but since I’m the guy tapping away at the keyboard,
we’re going to go with it. So if you want to know all
about things like tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplants,
you’re just going to have to wait until I write “All
About Vegetables.” Okay?
There is another class of plant products which might
be considered for inclusion in the Dictionary of Fruits
that I haven’t addressed yet. Nuts definitely qualify as
fruits in the sense that they are all parts of the fruit
of the plants that produce them. However, botanically
speaking, some of the things we call nuts are actually
drupes (walnuts and almonds), legumes (peanuts), and
seeds (Brazil nuts), and amid such confusion, I have
chosen to eliminate them from consideration here. There
may be a future article titled “All About Nuts,” and there
might not be. No one knows for sure.
So, now that I have eliminated about 229,900 of the
fruits known to science, we’ll focus on the 100 or so
fruits remaining-those that are commonly eaten by
people. Even this statement requires some qualification
because I know that right now, on some remote mountain
top in Borneo or on the banks of an uncharted stream in
the Amazon, somebody is eating a ripe, juicy fruit that
you and I will never hear of. We’re just going to have
to live with that.
The Dictionary of Fruits will list all those fruits
that are commonly known as fruits (not vegetables, not
nuts) and which are available to one degree or another
to my readers. When the guy in Borneo gets an email
account, then I’ll worry about the fruit he’s eating.
Acerola
- The bright red cherry-sized berries of the
Malpighia glabra bush grow wild throughout the
Caribbean where they are also known as Barbados cherries
and West Indian cherries. They have a sweet flavor
reminiscent of raspberries and are eaten raw, used as
pie filling, and to make jams and jellies.
Akee
- All the parts of the akee fruit (Blighia sapida)
are toxic until fully ripened, when the thick outer
shell bursts open to reveal white flesh (an aril to
botanists) surrounding three black seeds. Only the flesh
loses its toxicity when ripe; the remaining parts of the
fruit remain poisonous which caused the United States to
ban their importation until recently-they can now be
found canned in Hispanic and West Indian specialty
shops. Named for Captain Bligh of mutiny fame who
introduced them into the Caribbean from their home in
Africa, they form part of the unofficial national dish
of Jamaica, saltfish and akee.
Apple
- Ever since Adam ate from the Tree of Knowledge, apples
have figured in myth and legend and, even though modern
scholars now question whether the fruits in question
were actually what we know as apples, they played a role
in much of Celtic, Norse, Greek, and Roman mythology.
Apples are the fruits of the trees of the Malus
genus and, along with pears, quinces, and medlars, they
form the group known as pome fruits, all members of the
Rose family of plants. Modern apples are descended from
wild apples, or crab apples, about 30 species of which
range across Asia, Europe, and North America. They were
cultivated by cross-breeding crab apples at least 3,000
years ago and apparently originated in the portion of
Central Asia between the Caspian and Black seas.
Owing to their hybrid nature, a single apple tree
will produce widely varying offspring when grown from
seed, and in order to reproduce desirable
characteristics in future generations, apple trees must
be grafted. This sophisticated horticultural procedure
was known and described by the ancient Greeks and was no
doubt practiced for many centuries before.
This same variability has led to the development of
over 7,000 named varieties of apples which are now grown
in every temperate country on Earth. The apple tree’s
resistance to temperatures as low as -40º F (-40º C)
makes it the fruit capable of growing at higher
latitudes than any other fruit-with the exception of a
couple of types of berries. Its ability to prosper in
northern climates (apple trees require at least two
months of nighttime temperatures below freezing in order
to flower the following spring) combined with the
durability and long shelf life of the fruit after it has
been picked made it an invaluable crop in northern
Europe and Asia.
Apples come in every size from as small as a cherry
to as large as a grapefruit; in every shape from round
to oval to pear-shaped and even “cornered,” or slightly
boxy; in colors from green to yellow to mottled red and
dark, almost black red; and in flavor and texture
ranging from crisp and sour to soft and sweet. Some
varieties have flavors reminiscent of pineapple, banana,
anise, lemon, and even fennel. The skins may be thin or
thick and unpalatable, and smooth or mottled with a
coarse brown texture known as scald. In Britain and most
of the English-speaking world, apples are grouped into
two categories: eating (or dessert) apples, and cooking
apples. Other cultures quite correctly consider all
apples suitable for both eating raw and cooked, although
some might be disagreeably tart in their raw state. This
tartness is caused by malic acid in the fruit, and it is
this same acid that gives the sour candies that are so
popular with kids these days their mouth-puckering
qualities.
Once considered the most nutritious of all fruits
(which gave rise to the saying “an apple a day keeps the
doctor away”), apples are in fact not as nutritious as
many other fruits. They are a reasonably good source of
vitamins A and C, and are an excellent source of dietary
fiber.
Some of the most popular cultivars include the Red
Delicious which was developed on a Quaker farm in Iowa
in the 1890s, the Golden Delicious which was developed
in West Virginia around 1850 and related to the Red
Delicious in name only, and the deliciously tart Granny
Smith which was originally cultivated by Mrs. Maria
Smith in Sydney, Australia around 1865. In addition to
these, only about 20 to 30 other varieties are in
widespread cultivation around the world today, and an
approximately equal number of varieties might be
available locally in many regions of the globe.
Unfortunately, the realities of modern agribusiness and
a global economy have caused many of the lesser
known-and more interesting-varieties to become extinct.
Apricot
- In spite of their Latin name Prunus armeniaca,
apricots are not from Armenia. They actually originated
in central Asia where they were cultivated by the
Chinese at least 4,000 years ago, and from there spread
to other parts of the ancient world, including Persia
and Armenia where the Romans first encountered them.
Many Biblical references to apples may have been
referring to apricots. The Hebrew word “tappauch” was a
generic term for fruit, and early translators of Hebrew
texts into English were unfamiliar with apricots, but
apples were well known to them so “tappauch” was
translated as “apple,” and the mistranslation has been
passed on.
Along with other species of the Prunus genus
such as peaches, plums, and cherries, apricots belong to
a group of fruits known as stone fruits. This genus also
includes almonds, a close relative of the peach.
Apricots look like small, pale peaches with smooth skins
and sweet but relatively dry flesh compared to some of
their cousins. They are available fresh during their
short season in June and July, but they don’t travel or
age well, so the bulk of fresh apricots are dried,
canned, or turned into preserves. About 20 varieties are
grown commercially in the United States (the world’s
largest producer, with California accounting for about
90 percent of the harvest), China, and Europe,
especially in Hungary, Spain, France, and Italy.
Apricots are high in vitamin A, calcium, iron, and
beta-carotene. The kernels are used to flavor baked
goods and the popular liqueur Amaretto, but like all the
kernels of the members of the Prunus genus, they
contain high concentrations of cyanide compounds and are
toxic unless cooked before consumption.
Arbutus
- Also known as tree strawberries, the fruits of the
Arbutus unedo shrub native to Europe resemble
strawberries in appearance only. Their flavor is mild
and unexciting, tasting vaguely like vanilla. You aren’t
likely to find them fresh in supermarkets, but they can
be found growing wild in much of Europe (in Ireland
they’re called Killarney strawberries) and are
traditionally used to make jellies and liqueurs.
Atemoya
- This hybrid of two Annona species (cherimoya
and sweetsop) was “invented” by a US Department of
Agriculture scientist in 1917, but the same cross
occurred naturally in Australia in 1850 and again in
Israel in 1930. About the size of a bell pepper, the
atemoya has the characteristic lumpy skin of its parents
and the same soft custard-like sweet flesh studded with
large black seeds. Its flavor has been compared to a
combination of mango and vanilla. It is grown
commercially in Florida, but due to the small size of
the crop, fresh atemoyas are rarely available outside
the state. They are usually sold in their unripe state
as they continue to ripen after they have been picked.
Best eaten raw by scooping the flesh out of the halved
fruit, they are high in vitamins C and K.
Avocado
- Although they are treated as a vegetable in North
American and Europe, much of the world treats the fruits
of the Persea americana tree as the fruit that
they are; the creamy smooth flesh is routinely added to
fruit salads in Africa and Asia, and the Brazilians turn
them into ice creams, custards, and other sweet
concoctions. Although there are hundreds (if not
thousands) of naturally occurring varieties of avocados,
only two make regular appearances in American
supermarkets: the large green, smooth-skinned Fuerte,
and the smaller almost black, pebbly-skinned Haas.
Avocados are one of the few fruits high in saturated
fats, yet they are relatively low in calories due to
their low sugar content, and contain fair amounts of
vitamin C and thiamine.
Babaco
- The fruit of the Carica pentagona tree, a
natural hybrid of the papaya, resembles a long,
five-sided version of its cousin. This South American
native is not widely available outside of its natural
range, even though it is currently being grown
commercially in Florida, New Zealand, and the Channel
Islands. The flavor is likened to a cross between a
pineapple and a banana, but without the sweetness of
either. They are best eaten raw-skin and all-but can
also be poached in syrup and used to make savory
chutneys and relishes. Babacos (with the emphasis on the
second “ba”) are high in vitamins A and C and contain
three times as much of the enzyme papain as papayas.
Banana
- It is ironic that the world’s most popular fruit is
descended from an herbaceous plant whose fruit is
inedible. At least forty species of the
Musa genus grow wild in Southeast Asia and the
Pacific islands, and all of them have seedy fruits of
little or no practical value. Thousands of years ago one
species, Musa acuminata, underwent some genetic
mutations and began producing seedless fruits without
the benefit of pollination. This was later hybridized
(maybe naturally, maybe by early agronomists) with an
inedible wild banana (M. balbisiana) and the
modern banana was born. Scientists believe that bananas
may have been cultivated as long as 15,000 years ago,
making them a candidate for the first crop domesticated
by humans.
Bananas grow in clusters (“hands”) of about a dozen
bananas (“fingers”) that circle a long stalk that grows
from the central core of the plant, and many people are
surprised to see these hands growing upside down, with
their curved fingers pointing towards the sky. Up to 200
bananas may grow on a single stalk, and bananas are one
of a very small group of fruits that actually continue
to mature after they are picked. This makes them ideal
for shipping great distances as they may be picked green
and shipped as they mature, arriving at their
destination ready to eat up to several weeks later.
Today there are over 200 cultivars in commercial
production, and the one we are most familiar with is the
Dwarf Cavendish variety developed by the Duke of
Devonshire in 1836. Finger bananas, also called sugar
bananas, are much smaller than the Cavendish variety and
are renowned for their soft, sweet flesh. Other
varieties are available sporadically in finer
supermarkets and from specialty produce vendors,
including red bananas (only the skin is red, the flesh
is like other bananas), and apple bananas which have a
faint flavor of apples.
The vast majority of bananas eaten worldwide are
eaten raw, although the fruit is suitable for cooking in
a variety of ways and can be included in many savory and
sweet dishes. The ideal stage of ripeness for eating is
largely a matter of personal preference; many people
prefer them on the under-ripe side, when the tips of the
bananas are still tinged with green and the flesh is
still firm, while others prefer to let their bananas
mature until the skin is speckled with brown dots and
the flesh has acquired a soft, custard-like consistency.
Bananas should be stored at room temperature until they
are ripe, at which time they should be eaten or
refrigerated. Refrigeration will turn the skin black,
but the fruit will remain ready to eat for up to three
or four days. Bananas also freeze with excellent
results, and they may be frozen peeled and cut into
manageable pieces, or whole and unpeeled. One of the
more nutritious of fruits, bananas are rich in
potassium, riboflavin, niacin, vitamins A and C, and
dietary fiber.
Bergamot
- These small, yellow members of the citrus family are
rarely found in produce markets, but the flavor and
aroma of the fruits of the Citrus bergamia tree
are well known to tea drinkers—the essential oils from
the skin provide the distinct taste of Earl Grey tea.
The oil is also used in making candies and perfumes, and
the fruits may also be made into preserves and
marmalades.
Berries
- Any botanist will tell you that a berry is the fruit
of a plant which develops from a single ovary and
contains few or many seeds, but not a single pit. By
that definition, blueberries, cranberries, and currants
all qualify as true berries. But then so do bananas,
tomatoes, and eggplants, and once again we are faced
with a lack of agreement in terminology between
botanists and cooks. To further complicate matters, some
of the fruits we think of as berries, such as
strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries, are not
really berries. For the sake of simplicity and my own
sanity, we are going to treat those things that cooks
know to be berries as berries, and the heck with the
botanists. See individual listing for details on each
type of berry.
Bilberry - See blueberry
Blackberry
- Having recently declared that blackberries are not
really berries, it’s time to explain what I was talking
about. Blackberries are actually clusters of small,
individual berries (achenes to botanists), each
containing its own seed. The fruits of the Rubus
fruticosus are closely related and very similar to
several other members of the Rubus genus such as
raspberries, loganberries, and cloudberries. Dewberries,
another close relative, are very similar to blackberries
except that blackberries are larger and grow on upright
bushes, while dewberries are smaller and grow on
trailing plants.
Wild blackberries were eaten by prehistoric man, a
fact established by fossilized seeds excavated from
prehistoric sites, and they can still be found
throughout the temperate northern climates of both the
eastern and western hemispheres. Like the other members
of their genus, blackberries hybridize easily with their
close relatives, making the identification of the
original ancestral blackberry something that botanists
are still scratching their heads over. Their history of
cultivation is equally problematic because they are so
easily collected in the wild that there was little need
to cultivate them in earlier times, and it is difficult
to determine when they were first planted and tended
rather than simply gathered from the wild.
Fresh blackberries are generally available in the
northern hemisphere from May through August. They do not
ripen after being picked, so be careful to avoid
blackberries with their hulls still attached as this is
an indication that they were picked too early. They
spoil quickly due to their thin skins and should be used
within a day or two of their purchase. They will keep
for two or three days if stored in the refrigerator,
preferably lightly covered and in a single layer, and
they may also be frozen with excellent results, although
their texture will be affected. They are best eaten
fresh, but they also make wonderful jams and preserves
and are widely used in baked goods. In England,
blackberries and apples are a favorite combination for
pies.
Blueberry
- Of all the fruits to be included in this dictionary,
none proved more of a research challenge than
blueberries. I consulted more than a dozen references,
including several food and horticultural reference
books, encyclopedias and dictionaries, and no two
authorities agreed on all points concerning the
distinctions between various types of blueberries. To
further complicate matters, nomenclature varies
regionally and one berry might be called by several
names in one place, and several berries might be known
collectively under one name in other areas. Here is what
I have been able to sort out.
Early colonists of North America discovered berries
similar to the bilberries they knew from northern
Europe, where they were also known as whortleberries.
This name was also used for cranberries, and somewhere
along the line “whortleberry” became “hurtleberry.” This
name was further corrupted until it became huckleberry.
So, somewhere at some time, blueberries, bilberries,
cranberries, and huckleberries (four different species
in two different genera) have all been known as
blueberries, bilberries, whortleberries, cranberries,
craneberries, hurtleberries, or huckleberries. Got it?
Blueberries and bilberries are both members of the
Vaccinium genus. Bilberries are native to Europe and
include several species, but most notably Vaccinium
myrtillis. In England they are also known as
whinberries and blaeberries. (I told you this was
complicated, didn’t I?) Blueberries are native to North
America and are represented by three primary species:
high-bush (V. corymbosum), “rabbit-eye” (V.
ashei), and low-bush (V. angustifolium).
Although blueberries are slightly larger and sweeter
than bilberries, they are very similar to each other in
appearance and taste and may be indistinguishable to the
layman. North American production of blueberries is
extensive and great quantities are exported to Europe.
Thus, a European consumer may be buying North American
blueberries when she thinks she is buying European
bilberries (or whortleberries, or blaeberries, or
whatever), further adding to the confusion.
Regardless of what you call them, blueberries and
bilberries are small, round, and dark blue to almost
black in color with a silvery frost. They have thin
skins, soft flesh, tiny soft seeds, and a unique flavor.
They are best when in season from May to early October,
and fresh blueberries from New Zealand are available
through most of the rest of the year in the United
States. They are also available dried, frozen, and
canned.
Native Americans used blueberries extensively in
soups and stews, and they were one of the primary
components of pemmican, the American Indian version of
energy bars. Today they are used in every type of baked
good, including muffins, cookies, cakes, cobblers, and
pies, and they make excellent jams, jellies, and
preserves. Rich in vitamin C, iron, and dietary fiber,
they are also high in anti-oxidants whose health
benefits are theorized but have yet to be proven.
Bullace
- The fruits of the Prunus institia shrub native
to Europe come in two varieties: “black” bullaces which
are bluish purple in color; and “white” bullaces which
are actually a pale greenish yellow. These wild plums
are so tart in flavor that they are virtually inedible
raw, but they are often sweetened and used in pies and
pastry fillings, as well as jams and preserves.
Calamansi
- This small citrus fruit (Citrus madurensis)
native to the Philippines resembles a tangerine and its
tart juice is used in marinates and sauces. It is
rarely, if ever, available outside Southeast Asia.
Calamondin - See calamansi
Cantaloupe - See muskmelon
Cape
Gooseberry - Also known as ground cherries and physalis,
the Physalis peruviana is native to South
America, and it is something of a botanical mystery how
these cherry-sized orange berries came to be known to
the ancient Greeks. Close relative to other South
American natives like tomatoes and peppers, the fruits
are encased in a beige papery husk similar to their
cousin tomatillos. They have a delightful, distinctive
taste and are excellent eaten raw or cooked in baked
goods and preserves.
Carambola
- Better known as star fruits, the fruits of the
Southeast Asian Averrhoea corombola have become
widely available in US supermarkets. They are three to
five inches (7.5-12.5 cm) long with five ridges running
their length, giving them a star-shaped cross section.
They are often sold slightly green along the ridges and
are ripe when completely yellow. Their mild flavor
ranges from sweet to tart, depending on variety, and
with edible skin and seeds, they are good for eating out
of hand. They are generally eaten raw but can also be
poached in syrup or made into jams, and are high in
vitamin C with moderate amounts of niacin, potassium,
and phosphorus.
Cashew
Apple - The fruit of the Anacardium occidentale
tree native to Central and South America is actually the
kidney-shaped cashew nut. The nut grows at the bottom of
the custard apple, a pear-shaped “fruit” which is
actually the stalk of the true fruit. It has a
yellow-orange skin and tart, soft flesh and although it
may be eaten raw out of hand, it is most often used to
make wine, liqueurs, and vinegar. Cashew apples are not
imported into the United States.
Cherimoya
- Also called custard apples, cherimoyas are large
fruits with green skin that looks like a collection of
overlapping thumbprint indentations. The skin turns dark
brown when the fruit is ripe. The flesh is creamy white
with a smooth, custard-like texture dotted with large,
black, inedible seeds. Although the Annona cherimola
tree is native to the tropics of Central and South
America, cherimoyas are now grown commercially in
Florida and California. Choose fruits with unblemished
skins that are free from cracks where the skins segments
(called corpels) have separated. Store at room
temperature in a paper bag until ripe. Once ripe, they
will keep for up to four days in the refrigerator. They
may be used to make beverages and sauces, but the best
way to eat a cherimoya is to cut the fruit in half and
scoop out the sweet flesh, whose flavor has been
compared to a combination of pineapple, banana, and
strawberry.
Cherry
- These members of the Prunus genus of the rose
family, along with their cousins apricots, peaches, and
plums, form the group of fruits known to agronomists and
cooks as stone fruits. Native to the mountainous areas
of Asia Minor, all stone fruits still display their
preference for temperate climates by their need for
freezing winter temperatures and a refusal to flourish
in balmy tropical climates. Cherries have been
cultivated in China for at least 5,000 years, and
archeological evidence indicates that ancient people
collected the wild fruits over 10,000 years ago.
Cherries are divided into two main groups: sweet and
sour. Sweet cherries are also similarly divided into two
main groups: bigarreaus and geans (or guines). The best
known of the bigarreau type are the pale yellow Napoleon
and the deep red Bing varieties. Gean cherries, whose
flesh is characteristically softer and juicier than the
bigarreau varieties, include the deep purple Black
Tartarian and the golden-skinned Ranier varieties. Most
fresh cherries found in supermarkets are sweet cherries
as they are preferred for eating raw and out of hand.
Sour cherries are better suited to cooking and for
flavoring liqueurs. Also divided into two main groups,
morellos have dark juice and amarelles have a clear,
almost colorless juice. The flavor of sour cherries
ranges from almost sweet to bitter and tart, and some
varieties are so tart that they are considered inedible
in the raw state. Montmorency are among the sweetest and
best known sour cherries and have given their name to a
range of dishes-”a la Montmorency” means “with cherries”
in classic French cuisine.
Maraschino cherries are a type of wild cherry that
were distilled into a colorless, sweet liqueur called
Maraschino. The cherries themselves were preserved in
Maraschino liqueur and marketed as “Maraschino
cherries,” but nowadays any type of cherry can be used
(the Royal Ann is the most often used) and the
Maraschino liqueur has been replaced by an artificially
colored syrup with almond flavoring. The genuine
Maraschino cherries are still available in specialty
shops-be sure to read the label carefully.
As a general rule, pale cherries tend to be sweeter
than the darker cherries, which tend to be more acidic.
Always buy fresh cherries with their stems attached-a
sign of freshness-and taste them before you buy them if
possible. Store them in the refrigerator for up to a
week, and wash them immediately before eating.
Chinese Date - See jujube
Citron
- The fruits of the Citrus medica tree resemble
oversized, lumpy, greenish-yellow lemons. The pulp is
dry and extremely bitter and considered inedible, but
the thick skin of the fruit is pressed to extract citron
oil used in liqueurs and cosmetics, and candied to be
used in baked goods. The peel can also be used top make
jams and marmalade. Candied citron is available in
specialty shops and finer supermarkets, and should be
refrigerated or frozen to preserve its freshness.
Citrus
Fruits - This large group of edible fruits of the genus
Citrus includes oranges, lemons, limes, citrons,
tangerines, grapefruits, tangelos, ugli fruits, and
more. The genus, native to Asia, is a genealogist’s
nightmare because the different species interbreed so
readily that it is uncertain whether some species
originated as unique species or as the result of
opportunistic cross-breeding in nature. (Let’s just say
that if you were a fruit, you wouldn’t want to bring a
Citrus home to meet your parents.) They all prefer
tropical climates and are grown in tropical and
subtropical zones around the world, making possible the
year-round availability of fresh citrus almost
everywhere. They are all characteristically tart owing
to the citric acid that bears their name. See individual
listing for details on each type of citrus fruit.
Clementine - See tangerine
Cloudberry
- These natives of Canada, New England, and Scandinavia
are close relatives of raspberries, which they resemble
except for their golden yellow color. The fruits of
Rubus chamaemorous are too tart to be eaten out of
hand, but they are used to make jams and jellies. A wild
berry that is not grown commercially, cloudberries are
rarely seen in supermarkets even in their native range.
They are also known as bake-apple berries, mountain
berries, and yellow berries.
Crab Apple - See apple
Cranberry
- Cranberries, native to northern Europe and North
America, are the fruits of several members of the
Viburnum genus and are closely related to
blueberries. The name is believed to be a contraction of
“craneberries” (as they are still known in some parts of
the world), supposedly for their appeal to the large
birds. They grow on long trailing vines and are
harvested by flooding the bogs they grow in and skimming
the berries off the water as they bob to the surface.
They are also called “bounceberries” because ripe
berries will bounce when dropped. They are prized for
their tart flavor and, in addition to the familiar
cranberry relishes that accompany holiday turkeys, they
also make wonderful pies, chutneys, preserves, cobblers,
and other desserts. Because of their thick, waxy skins,
fresh cranberries have a much longer shelf life than
most other berries. They are available dried and frozen
year round, and fresh from October through December. To
store fresh cranberries, remove any crushed berries and
refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month,
or freeze them for up to a year.
Currant
- Although dried Zante grapes are sold as dried
currants, they are only distantly related to the
currants of the Ribes genus used to make syrups,
liqueurs, jams, and jellies. They are small, round,
gem-like berries that grow in clusters similar in
appearance to small bunches of grapes. These Northern
European natives are closely related to gooseberries and
are classed in three categories: black, red, and white.
Black currants are very tart and are usually used for
syrups and preserves, and to lend their distinctive
flavor and color to crème de cassis. Red currants are
sweeter and may be eaten out of hand, and are the basis
for Cumberland sauce. White currants are also sweet
enough to be eaten alone, and they are used to make the
famous Bar-le-Duc preserves of the Lorraine region of
France. If you are lucky enough to have fresh currants
available in your area during their season (June through
August), treat them like most other berries: store them
unwashed in airtight containers in the refrigerator for
up to five days, and wash them just before you use them.
Curuba
- Also called “banana passion fruits,” the elongated
yellow fruits of the Passiflora molissima are
filled with large seeds surrounded by a soft, gelatinous
coating similar to passion fruits, their close relative.
They are native to South America and, although they
occasionally reach American supermarkets, the
international trade in these fruits is limited. The soft
skin can be peeled like a banana, and the seeds scooped
out to be eaten fresh or to be strained to form a sweet
coulis.
Custard Apple - See cherimoya
Damson - See plum
Date
- The fruits of the date palm (Phoenix dactylifera)
have been cultivated for at least 8,000 years, making it
a candidate for the “first plant cultivated by humans”
prize. Native to northern Africa and the Mediterranean,
they have been spread worldwide by humans because of
their value as a food crop. Long regarded as the “tree
of life,” every part of the plant is used; the fruit is
eaten, the sap is drunk, the fibers are woven, and the
pits are used for animal fodder. Dates have a higher
concentration of natural sugar than any other fruit, and
a single tree produces and average of more than 100
pounds (45 Kg) of fruit per year.
Fresh dates are available in the regions where they
are grown (and to a lesser degree elsewhere), but dried
dates are the form of the fruit most familiar to most
people. Hundreds of varieties exist, but few are
exported. Deglet noor dates from Israel and North Africa
are often available, and medjool dates are the most
prized for their flavor and sweetness and are widely
available. Dates are oblong in shape (some are almost
round), have a thin papery green skin that changes to
yellow, golden, brown, mahogany, or almost black
(depending on the variety) as the fruit matures, and a
single long, narrow seed.
Fresh dates can be eaten as is, or the skin may be
slipped off by pinching the skin at the stem end and
squeezing to extract the fruit. Both fresh and dried
dates are used in many savory dishes, especially in the
Middle East and North Africa. They make nutritious
additions to salads and have a particular affinity for
cheese, but the majority of dried dates are used in
baked goods and other sweet preparations.
Dewberry - See blackberry
Dragon
Fruit - Also known as pitahaya, pitaya, and strawberry
pear, the fruits of the cactus Hylocereus undatus are
among the most spectacular in nature. There are two
varieties that occasionally appear in markets outside of
their native range in Central and South America: the
pink variety has a bright Fuchsia-pink skin with
green-tipped protrusions, and the yellow variety which
has yellow skin and resembles a small prickly pear or
pineapple. Both have translucent white flesh dotted with
tiny edible black seeds and the texture of kiwi fruit
with a bland, mildly acidic flavor. They are almost
always eaten raw and the flesh can be scooped out of the
halved fruit like an avocado.
Drupe - See stone fruit
Durian
- The bad boy of the fruit world, the fruits of the
Durio zibethenus tree resemble spiny, armored
footballs weighing up to 10 pounds (4.5 Kg). The flesh
of the durian surrounds large inedible seeds inside the
spiked exterior. It has such a strong and foul odor that
it is banned in many restaurants, and most airlines
refuse to carry them for this reason. The soft,
custard-like flesh is valued (or craved, in the case of
serious durian aficionados) for its creamy sweetness and
a flavor that some say resembles strawberries. Fresh
durians are rarely available outside their natural range
in Southeast Asia, but if you do find one it is best to
eat it immediately because any attempt to store it will
make your house smell like a backed-up sewer. Canned and
dried durian is available in Asian specialty markets,
but these bear little resemblance to the fresh product.
Elderberry
- The berries of the elder tree (Sambucus canadensis)
contain poisonous alkaloids and must be cooked before
eating. Seldom available in stores, they grow wild
throughout the northern hemisphere and are gathered when
they ripen in the summer. They are considered too tart
to be used alone and are frequently combined with other
fruits to make jams, jellies, pies, tarts, and fools.
The berries and flowers of the plant are used to make
elderberry wine, and the flowers are used to flavor
drinks and to make fritters. The juice from the berries
is also used as a textile dye.
Feijoa
- Native to South America, the fruits of shrubs of the
Psidium genus are now commercially grown in New
Zealand and California. The 3-inch (8 cm) long
egg-shaped fruits have a thin green skin surrounding
creamy white flesh and a soft, jelly-like center
containing numerous small, edible seeds. The entire
fruit is edible including the bitter skin, which most
people prefer to remove. It has a mild, sweet flavor
often compared to pineapple and strawberries, and makes
a wonderful addition to fruit salads. Also called
pineapple guava although it is only a distant relative
of true guavas.
Fig
- Along with bananas and dates, figs are candidates for
the distinction of being the first fruit cultivated by
man. They were said to have grown in the Garden of Eden,
and were known to even the earliest Middle Eastern
civilizations. It is no wonder their value was
appreciated early on: they grow easily in poor soils
with little or no tending; they produce sugar-rich fruit
(they’re the sweetest of all fruits); and the fruit
dries readily for storage and transportation. The only
Mediterranean member of the huge Ficus genus
(which includes the rubber tree (F. elastica),
banyan tree (various Ficus species) and the
sacred fig, or peepul (F. religiosa)), the
Ficus carica has spread nearly as widely as the
humans who have carried it with them in their migrations
around the world, and is now grown in every temperate
climate on the planet.
The so-called fruits of the genus are a botanical
oddity because what we call a fruit is actually a flower
head turned inside-out. The interior of the fig contains
thousands of tiny flowers that never see the light of
day and are pollinated by tiny wasps that enter the
central chamber of the fig to lay their eggs. Wild
plants are either male (caprifigs) or female (true, or
edible figs), and unpolinated fruits fail to mature and
fall from the tree. This is also true for many
cultivated varieties (although some will produce fruits
without pollination), so growers must include caprifigs
among their orchards of true figs in order to produce a
harvest.
Fresh figs are fragile and don’t travel well, so
they’re not often available in supermarkets. Although
there are several named varieties on the market (usually
identified by the color of their skin: green, black, and
red), there is very little difference in flavor among
types of figs-their delicate flavor is best described as
just plain sweet. Buy the figs that look and smell
freshest and ignore the color of the skin and the name
of the variety when making your selection. Dried figs
are widely available-try to buy ones that are still
plump rather than those that have been dried to the
point of mummification.
The entire fig is edible, although some people prefer
to eat the sweet moist interior and leave the fleshy
outer skin behind. Fresh figs are delicious eaten raw
out of hand or paired with cheeses, and can be grilled
or cooked in gratins. Dried, they can also be eaten
as-is or added to stews and casseroles, and they play a
major role in the cooking of the Middle East. They are
also the base for many sweet confections including baked
goods, jams and preserves, and candies.
Genip
- Pronounced heh-NEEP, the cherry-sized fruits of the
Melicoccus bijugatis tree have a thick, dimpled
green skin surrounding a pink or yellowish jelly-like
flesh and one or two seeds. They grow in pendulous
clusters and have a flavor similar to lychees. They are
also known as mamoncilla, Spanish lime, and limoncillo
(Spanish for “little lemon”), even though they are not
related to the citrus fruits.
Gooseberry
- The tart berries of a shrubby, deciduous plant (Ribes
grossularia) come in a variety of colors, ranging
from almost white through green and yellow to deep red.
These natives to northern Europe, like their close
cousins currants and many other members of the Ribes
genus, are considered too tart to be eaten out of hand,
but are highly prized for use in pies, preserves, and
trifles. Cultivated only since the 16th century, they
grow wild in profusion in the woods of northern Europe,
and were introduced into England where they escaped from
gardens and naturalized. The origin of the name is
something of a mystery; the most popular theory suggests
they were used to make a sauce for goose. The French
name is similarly associated with a rich, fatty food-
they are known as groseille a maquereau, or “red
currants for mackerel.”
Granadilla
- The largest members of the passion fruit family, the
smooth, orange fruits of the Passiflora
quadrangularis can weigh several pounds. Like their
cousins, the interior of the fruit contains several
small, black seeds surrounded by a grayish, sweet,
subtly-flavored pulp.
Grape
- Members of the Vitis genus are native to every
continent except Antarctica, and there are countless
varieties of grapes in cultivation. Many are used
exclusively for making wine, and while this may have
been the original motivation behind their early
cultivation, wine grapes are not the focus of this
article. Here we will focus on two other categories of
grapes: table grapes, and those that are grown for
commercial food production.
Table groups can be divided into two binary
categories: black and white (or red and green, depending
on where you are from); and seeded and seedless. By far
the most popular table grape in the United States is the
white Thompson Seedless, but other varieties of white
seedless grapes are also available, including Perlette
and Sultana (from which both Perlette and Thompson
Seedless are derived). Black or red seedless grapes are
also widely available, with Flame being one of the more
ubiquitous seedless varieties in American supermarkets,
and dark (almost black) Ribier being a commonly found
seeded variety. Many other varieties of table grapes are
available for short periods during their short season,
so be sure to give each a try as they become available
in your area because every table grape has a unique set
of qualities.
Grapes whose primary purpose is for processing into
raisins or preserves include the small seedless Zante
grape of Greece and Turkey that is dried to make
currants; Muscat grapes whose drying results in the bulk
of the dark raisins we buy; and the North American
Concord grape that is used to make juice and jellies.
Golden raisins (sultanas) are usually made from Thompson
Seedless grapes, even though these can also be turned
into dark raisins by employing a different drying
process.
Grapes are an indispensable ingredient in fruit and
gelatin salads, and can also be added to green salads.
They can also be cooked with chicken, fish, and veal,
and the French term Veronique is used to describe dishes
garnished with seedless white grapes. Their juice is
used in cooking (not just in the form of wine), and
verjuice, the sour juice of unripe grapes, is used in
the manner of lemon juice and vinegar in parts of the
Mediterranean.
Buy grapes with a greyish, powdery coating (called
the “bloom”) on them-the lack of this bloom indicates
that they have been scrubbed and possibly adulterated in
other ways on their way to market. Store unwashed grapes
in a plastic bag in the refrigerator where they will
remain fresh for up to two weeks. Wash them immediately
before eating, and allow them to come to room
temperature for best flavor.
Grapefruit
- Grapefruits are typical of the citrus family in that
they are the product of a cross between two species of
this rather promiscuous genus. My sources don’t all
agree on the actual parentage of this large, round fruit
that grows in clusters (hence the grape-like
appellation), but it appears to be a cross between a pomelo and some other citrus-perhaps the orange-that was
developed in the 18th century. The juicy flesh ranges in
color from light yellow (almost white) to deep red, and
many connoisseurs believe that the pinker the flesh, the
sweeter the fruit. They are almost always eaten fresh
and raw, usually heavily sweetened to counteract their
assertive tartness. They are also welcome additions to
green salads, and they make wonderful marmalade.
Greengage
- The small, round plum-like fruits of the Prunus
italica tree have skins ranging from green to yellow and
a tart, sweet flavor. They are closely related to plums,
and many green varieties of plums are often mistakenly
identified as greengages. True greengages are rarely
available in American markets, but they are very popular
in Europe where they are often used to make compotes and
jams, but they are especially prized for their delicate
sweetness and are usually eaten raw. In France they are
called Reine-Claude for the wife of Francois I
who was reportedly especially fond of them.
Ground Cherry - See cape gooseberry
Guanabana - See soursop
Guarana
- The berries of the
Paullinia cupana tree
native to northern Brazil and Venezuela have a unique,
berry-like flavor that makes them popular as a flavoring
for soft drinks and candies in Brazil. Guarana (gwah-rah-NAH)
is only available in the United States as a soft drink
(distributed by one of the big soft drink companies and
becoming increasingly available nationwide as its
popularity grows), and in the form of various cure-all
and weight-loss “health” supplements that currently have
a small following of fad-following proponents. Consumers
should be aware that “guaranine” is often listed among
the “active” ingredients in products containing guarana.
This is just another name for caffeine, which may
account for the various unfounded claims of medicinal
properties.
Guava
- Guavas range in size from a large olive to
medium apples; in color from green and yellow to deep
red on the exterior; and from creamy white to vivid pink
on the interior. Most of the guavas that reach markets
are from the shrub-like Psidium guajave tree, but
several other varieties are often available in their
native range in South America. The soft fleshy interior
containing many edible seeds is fragrant and sweet, with
an aroma and flavor that is often compared to quinces.
Guavas are excellent for out-of-hand eating, and they
are widely available poached in syrup, canned, in
jellies and jams, and in the form of a thick paste
called guayabada in Spanish. Guavas continue to ripen
after they are picked, so allow under-ripe fruits to
ripen at room temperature, and then store them in the
refrigerator for up to four days.
Hawberry
- Also called haws, the small, dark red
berries of various species of hawthorn trees (Crataegus
genus) are so bitter and tart that they are considered
inedible in their raw state. They can be used to make
jams and jellies, and are often combined with crabapples
for this purpose.
Huckleberry
- Almost identical in every respect to
their close cousins blueberries, huckleberries
(Vaccinium myrtillus) have thicker skins, larger seeds,
and a more assertive flavor than their better-know
relative. They can be used exactly as blueberries.
Although they grow wild throughout the northern United
States and southern Canada, they are not grown
commercially so you aren’t likely to find them in your
supermarket.
Hybrid Berries
- A number of crosses between
blackberries (and their close relatives) and raspberries
(ditto), some of them natural and some of them man-made,
are available in one form or another. Since few of these
berries are produced commercially in large quantities,
and given that ripe berries are too delicate to
transport effectively, they are usually available only
in the form of jams or jellies. Loganberries are a
natural hybrid discovered in the Santa Cruz, California
garden of Judge J. H. Logan in 1881. Other
blackberry-raspberry hybrids often encountered are
boysenberries, tayberries, youngberries, wineberries,
tummelberries, and sunberries.
Jackfruit
- These large fruits can weigh up to 50
pounds (23 Kg), making them one of the world’s largest
tree-borne fruits. The Artocarpus heterophyllus tree of
Southeast Asia is related to the breadfruit tree. The
thick, spiny skin of the fruits changes from green to
brown as it ripens, and the soft, delicately flavored
pale yellow flesh can be eaten raw or cooked. The seeds
are also edible and are a popular snack, eaten roasted,
boiled, and fried.
Jamaican
Plum - Know by a variety of names including
Spanish plums, hoy plums, limbu, and mombin, the
Spondias purpurea plant of Central America is related to
mangos, and its fruit resembles them in many respects.
The tart flesh surrounds a large fibrous seed and must
be teased away to be eaten, but the flavor is more often
compared to pineapple than to mangos. They can be used
in fruit salads and jams, chutneys, and frozen desserts
exactly like mangos.
Jujube
- These small olive-sized fruits are variously
known as Chinese dates, Chinese apples, red, dates, and
in India, bec and bor. The Chinese have been cultivating
Zizyphus jujuba for more than 4,000 years. The leathery
green skin gradually changes to rust-red and finally to
brown as they ripen; the firm, crisp white flesh has a
texture similar to an apple; and the flavor hints of
prunes. They can be made into jams, jellies, and
candies, and are often dried and used in sweet and
savory Chinese dishes.
Kaffir
Lime - The leaves of the Citrus hystrix tree
are used in Southeast Asian cooking to lend a slightly
floral citrus note to many soups and stews, and the rind
of the small, bumpy, green fruits is used in the same
way. The flesh is not customarily eaten.
Key Lime - See lime
Kiwano
- Probably the strangest looking fruit ever
seen in most American supermarkets, these small, oblong
fruits look like spiny, bright-orange little footballs.
They are native to New Zealand and, thanks to the
excellent job the New Zealanders do in providing much of
the world with exotic fruits, they are widely available.
This member of the cucumber family (Cucumis metuliferus)
is filled with seeds covered in a jelly-like flesh
similar to passion fruits, and are used in drinks, fruit
salads, and scooped out of their shell and eaten raw.
Kiwi Fruit
- One would never guess by looking at the
dull, fuzzy brown exterior of a kiwi fruit that inside
lies a luscious and visually stunning surprise. The
firm, juicy flesh is bright green (in most varieties)
and studded with tiny black seeds arranged in spokes
around a central core. Many descriptions refer to a
flavor that’s a cross between a pineapple and a
strawberry, but if you ask me, they just taste like kiwi
fruit. Although they were introduced to the world at
large by agronomists from New Zealand, and Actinidia
sinensis is actually native to China which accounts for
their being called Chinese gooseberries before the
enterprising Kiwis took the fruit worldwide. Kiwis
continue to ripen after they are picked, so let them
rest at room temperature until they become a little soft
to the touch, and then store them in the refrigerator
until you are ready to eat them. Kiwi fruits are much
appreciated for their eye appeal and are often used as a
garnish for desserts and pastries, but they are also
valuable as a fruit in their own right. They can be
eaten out of hand (the skin is edible, although most
people prefer to discard it), and make wonderful
jellies. However, they contain large amounts of an
enzyme that prevents gelatin from setting and curdles
milk when raw, so should not be included in gelatin
desserts or milk-based preparations such as ice cream
and custard.
Kumquat
- Although kumquats are usually grouped with
citrus fruits, they belong to a different, albeit
closely related, genus. The small fruits of the Fortunella margarita have a thin, bright orange skin,
orange flesh with small seeds, and a citrus-like flavor
that is both bitter and tart. They can be eaten whole,
skin and all, and are commonly found canned in syrup or
alcohol. They make excellent marmalade and jam, and can
be cooked whole with poultry and pork.
Lemon
- Probably the most versatile of the citrus
fruits; the juice, flesh, and rind of lemons are all
used in an endless array of sweet and savory dishes of
every description. They can be eaten raw (although few
of us relish the thought) or cooked, the juice can be
drunk (usually diluted and sweetened), and the rind
offers its unique flavor and aroma to everything from
soups to candies. Lemons often serve as little more than
a garnish and are traditionally treated as such in many
seafood preparations, but they can also be a featured
component-in North Africa whole preserved lemons are
often added to stews and tagines.
The Citrus limon is believed to have originated in
India or Southeast Asia, and lemons, spread rapidly by
the hands of ancient traders, were well known to the
early Mediterranean cultures. Their migrations were
subsequently aided by seafaring merchants and explorers
who took them along to fight scurvy and other diseases
resulting from vitamin C depletion, and as a result,
lemons were probably the first alien crop introduced
into many newly discovered and conquered lands.
The same thing that made lemons popular for medical
reasons also makes them popular for culinary reasons.
Their high content of citric and ascorbic acids (also
known as vitamin C) gives them an agreeable if somewhat
mouth-puckering tartness, and the low pH (high acidity)
prevents oxidation and acts as a preservative. This is
why a little lemon juice in a bowl of water will prevent
vegetables such as potatoes and artichokes from turning
brown. This same chemical action also denatures
proteins, and lemon juice can be used to tenderize-and
even “cook”-meats. In the case of seviche, raw fish is
marinated in lemon juice until the fish is firm and
opaque, as if it had been cooked. (Another way to
denature proteins is through heat, so in a technical
sense, the lemon juice really does cook the fish.)
Although there are dozens varieties of lemons
differing primarily in the size of the fruit and the
thickness of the rind, they all share the characteristic
bright yellow skin, sharp acidity, and unique flavor.
Lime
- There are actually two different fruits known
around the world as limes. The large, bright green
lemon-shaped fruits of the Citrus latifolia tree are
those most familiar to Europeans and North Americans.
Also known as Persian and Tahitian limes, their flesh,
rind, and juice are used the same as lemons. The
smaller, rounder fruits of the Citrus aurantifolia tree,
usually no larger than a walnut, are variously known as
Key limes, Mexican limes, and West Indian limes. Their
flavor is very similar to Persian limes but they tend to
be bitter and are not suitable for many preparations for
which lemons and Persian limes are well suited, such as
marmalades and preserves. Like Persian limes, their
juice can be used in sauces, beverages, and marinades,
and is available in bottles. Unlike lemons which prefer
a cooler climate, both types of limes are at home in
tropical as well as sub-tropical conditions, and are
often used as (and even called) lemons in those areas
where true lemons will not grow.
Litchi
- Also spelled litchee, lichi, and lychee, it’s
pronounce LEE-chee no matter how you spell it. The
small, egg-shaped fruits of the Litchi sinensis
tree of China have a distinctive bumpy brick-red, thin
leathery skin surrounding thick, translucent jelly-like
flesh and a single large, inedible brown seed. They have
been cultivated in China for at least 2,000 years are
now grown in subtropical regions around the world,
including California, Hawaii, and Florida. Fresh litchis
are often available in June and July, and canned litchis
are also readily available thanks to their popularity in
Chinese cuisine. When dried they are known as litchi
nuts and are often treated as a snack food.
Longan
- These distant relatives of the litchi share
many of the same characteristics. The small round or
oval fruits of the Euphoria longana tree are covered by
a thin, inedible brown skin which, when peeled back,
reveals a translucent white flesh surrounding a large,
inedible seed. They have a subtle, sweet flavor similar
to litchis. They can occasionally be bought fresh,
usually in large clusters still attached to the stems,
and they are available canned in syrup. In China they
are known as Dragon’s eyes and are used, usually whole,
in sweet and savory dishes.
Loquat
- A member of the apple family, loquats
(Eriobotya japonica) are native to Japan and China. The
small, apricot-sized fruits have a thin, yellow or
orange edible skin and crisp, white or yellow flesh with
a fresh, tart flavor that reminds one of sour cherries.
Also known as Japanese plums and Japanese medlars, they
can be eaten out of hand or used to make jams and
chutneys. They can also be added to chicken or duck
dishes and are available dried and canned in Asian
specialty shops.
Mandarin - See tangerine
Mango
- There are thousands of varieties of mangos
thanks in large part to their tremendous popularity in
tropical climates around the world. This popularity has
led to a great deal of diversity in the fruits of the Mangifera indica tree native to India, and its fruits
vary greatly in size, shape, color, and flavor. Most
mangos that reach American consumers are curved, oblong
fruits with a thin green, yellow, orange, or red skin
and sweet, distinctly-flavored soft golden flesh
surrounding a large, fibrous central pit. The majority
of mangos are eaten out of hand or in fruit salads, but
they are also processed into jams, jellies, and chutneys
(the famous Major Grey’s is an example), and the bottled
or canned juice is sold as mango nectar. Green mangos,
the unripe fruits, feature prominently in the cooking of
India and Southeast Asia, and in dried powdered form are
known as amchoor, or mango powder in India. Keep
under-ripe mangos in a paper bag at room temperature
until they yield slightly to gentle pressure (like a
peach or pear), and then store them in the refrigerator.
Mangosteen
- It’s a pity the small, round fruits of
the Garcinia mangostana tree aren’t available outside of
their native range in Southeast Asia because the
succulent flesh is sweet, tart, and refreshing. The pale
flesh surrounds several large inedible seeds arranged in
segments inside a thick, pithy shell and smooth outer
skin, both the color of oxblood. They are rarely cooked
or included in fruit salads and are usually just eaten
out of hand. Experienced mangosteen eaters are cautious
of the juicy inedible pulp they must dig through in
order to get to the fruit because it stains everything
it touches.
Medlar
- Medlars were more popular in the past than
they are now, even though a 19th century horticulturist
described them all as “of equal unpleasantness.” A
relative of apples and pears, the distinctive round
fruit of the Mespilus germanica tree has five elongated
appendages at the flower end of the fruit but otherwise
resembles a small apple. They are never eaten fresh or
raw, and were traditionally allowed to rot for several
weeks in a process known as “bletting” before being
consumed. The firm flesh of the medlar becomes soft and
sticky after bletting and can be scooped out of its skin
with a spoon. They were processed into jams and jellies,
and were valued for their wine-like flavor. Medlars are
not grown commercially but may be found growing wild in
Europe, Asia, and even North America where they escaped
from backyard gardens.
Melons
- Members of the huge Cucurbitaceae family that
includes cucumbers, squashes, and gourds, there are
literally thousands of species of melons growing wild
and in cultivation around the world. Botanists believe
they originated in Africa, and they were being
cultivated in China at least 3,000 years ago. Most
authorities divide the edible melons into two
categories: muskmelons and watermelons. They are
characterized by their oval or round shape, a thick
edible (though often unpalatable) rind, and very juicy
flesh surrounding numerous seeds which are often located
in a cavity in the center of the fruit. See muskmelons
and watermelons.
Mineola - See tangerines
Monstera
- Picture a foot-long, narrow green pinecone
and you’ll have a pretty good idea what to look for when
shopping for monstera. The fruit of the Monstera
deliciosa plant native to Central America (often sold as
house plants as split-leaf philodendrons) is covered
with geometric scales attached to the ends of segments
of soft, custard-like flesh attached around a central
core. Its flavor is usually described as a combination
of banana, pineapple, and mango. The fruit ripens
gradually, beginning at the thick end and gradually
working towards the tip of the fruit. As the individual
segments ripen, the outer scale-like covering becomes
loose, indicating that it is ready to be eaten. If eaten
before it’s ripe, the fruit has an irritating and
slightly toxic effect.
Mulberry
- There are three types of mulberry trees of
the Morus genus. The fruits of the black mulberry are
actually dark purple, and the tree is found growing wild
all over Asia and Europe. Many European black mulberry
trees are descended from trees that were planted (in the
misguided belief that silk worms would feed on them) in
several early attempts to break the Chinese monopoly on
silk production. In reality, the finicky larvae of the
silk moth only eat the leaves of the white mulberry,
which grows primarily in Central Asia and whose fruits
are actually more yellow than white in color. The
aptly-named red mulberry is a North American native and
its fruits are, as you might have guessed, red. All
three types of mulberries grow on enormous trees (up to
50 feet tall and 50 feet across) and they all resemble
large blackberries. They are sweet enough to be eaten
without benefit of added sweeteners, and they make
excellent jam, jelly, ice cream, and sorbet.
Muskmelon
- Hundreds, or maybe thousands of varieties
of Cucumis melo are readily available throughout the
world. They are distinguished from the other main
category of melons (see watermelons) by their thick,
dense flesh and the central cavity that houses the
seeds. Muskmelons are further divided into two main
categories: summer and winter melons. The summer
muskmelons have a crosshatched or netted texture on
their skins, and winter muskmelons have smooth or finely
ridged skins. Their skins can range in color from a drab
brown to vivid yellow or green and can be netted or
smooth, and their flesh ranges in color from ivory to
pale green to yellow and salmon. The most common
muskmelon in American supermarkets is probably the
cantaloupe (named after the Italian city of Cantalupo
and the muskmelons grown there), and honeydew, Persian,
casaba, Santa Claus, Crenshaw, and Charentais melons are
also frequently available.
Anyone who has ever tasted the juicy sweetness of a
ripe muskmelon already knows that they are mostly water,
and although the orange-fleshed varieties contain
significant amounts of beta-carotene, there is little to
recommend them from a nutritional point of view. Much
has been written about how to pick a ripe melon, but
there are so many different varieties with differing
characteristics that it is difficult to generalize. Some
muskmelons smell fresh and “melony” when ripe, and other
do not, so don’t let your nose be your only guide.
Choose melons that are heavy for their size, and whose
blossom end (the dimple) yields slightly when pressed
with your thumb. Although they will continue to ripen
when stored at room temperature, they will never taste
as sweet as those that matured on the vine, so buy your
muskmelons as ripe as you can, and eat them as soon as
you can.
The delicate flavor of most melons is lost in
cooking, so the vast majority of muskmelons are eaten
fresh and raw, alone or as part of fruit salads. They
are also good with cheese, and the more strongly
flavored varieties make wonderful ice creams and
sorbets.
Nectarine
- Nectarines are natural mutations (called
sports) of peaches and are identical to peaches except
that their skin is smooth rather than fuzzy. In spite of
what most food writers would have you believe, the
differences between peaches and nectarines (some say one
is sweeter, or stronger flavored, or firmer textured)
are no greater than the differences between any two
types of peaches, and any imagined difference is due to
this variability rather than a hard-and-fast distinction
between the two fruits. They can be propagated by seed
or by cuttings, but either way, a nectarine tree might
produce peaches and vice versa-it is not uncommon the
see both fruits on a single tree. See peaches.
Orange
- Oranges account for almost 75 percent of the
citrus fruits grown worldwide. Although most of them
bear their namesake color, green, yellow and red-mottled
oranges also exist, and some oranges will actually
change from orange to green after they have ripened. The
fruits of the Citrus sinensis, native to China and
Southeast Asia, can be divided into two categories:
sweet, and bitter.
Most of the oranges you are likely to find in your
supermarket are sweet oranges. This group includes the
ubiquitous Valencia orange, the most widely cultivated
variety. It is best eaten fresh and raw, and provides
most of the orange juice sold commercially. Navel
oranges are a probably a natural mutation that occurred
in China several thousand years ago. The navel-like
indentation at the flower end of the fruit is actually a
small seed-bearing embryonic orange within an orange,
leaving the main fruit seedless. Navel oranges are
prized for their sweet flavor low in acidity and because
the peel is easily removed from the fruit, making it a
natural and easy-to-eat snack food. However, the juice
from navel oranges will quickly turn extremely bitter
due to enzymatic action that begins when the cell walls
are broken. Blood oranges have flesh that is tinged pink
in some varieties and deep maroon in others, and with
every shade in between. These are the most widely
cultivated oranges in Italy, and their flesh and juice
are valued not only for their sweet flavor tinged with a
hint of raspberries, but for their high concentration of
antioxidants as well.
Bitter oranges are rarely found in supermarkets these
days. This is ironic because, up until about 200 years
ago, bitter oranges were the only oranges available
outside of Asia. Nowadays they are used primarily for
preserves and as a flavoring agent, and are considered
too bitter (and, in some cases, too sour as well) to be
eaten raw. Seville oranges are used to make marmalade,
and although Spain is the world’s largest producer, the
bulk of the harvest is shipped to England for processing
into their favorite breakfast spread. The peels also
lend their characteristic flavor to liqueurs such as
Grand Marnier and Cointreau.
The flowers of the orange tree produce a delicate
sweet fragrance that is distilled into orange flower
water and used to add flavor and aroma to pastries and
beverages.
Oranges are justifiably acclaimed for their vitamin C
content-a single orange provides about twice the
recommended daily allotment. Be aware that the vitamin C
in orange juice begins to decline immediately after
being squeezed-after only 24 hours in the refrigerator
as much as 20 percent of the vitamin C will have
dissipated-so drink freshly-squeezed orange juice for
the maximum health benefit. Oranges are also high in
dietary fiber.
Ortanique - See tangerine
Papaya
- In spite of their many melon-like
characteristics, the Carica papaya of Central America
and the Caribbean isn’t even remotely related to melons.
The fruits have smooth skins, usually yellow to orange
in color, pink or salmon-colored flesh, and many round
edible seeds with a peppery flavor. Hundreds of
varieties are grown in tropical and subtropical climates
around the world, most of them ranging in size from
about 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) in length. The plant is
something of a botanical wonder because it will grow
from seed to a height of 12 feet (3.6 m) and produce
fruit in as little as 12 months. The fruits grow
directly out of the thick trunk of the tree (actually a
large herb) near the umbrella of large star-shaped
leaves at the top. The juicy flesh, which is often
compared to melons and peaches in texture and flavor,
contains large amounts of the enzyme papain that is used
as a meat tenderizer. They are usually eaten raw, and
canned or bottled papaya juice is sold as papaya nectar.
Under-ripe green papayas are treated as vegetables in
the cooking of the Caribbean region and parts of
Southeast Asia.
Passion Fruit
- The Passiflora edulis vine takes its
name from its blossoms-the different parts of the flower
are said to represent different aspects of the
crucifixion of Christ. The ovoid fruits, usually about 3
inches (7 cm) in length, have a smooth purple skin that
becomes dimpled or wrinkled when fully ripe. The
interior contains several small black edible seeds which
are surrounded by an orange, jelly-like coating that has
a distinctive, sweet-tart flavor and delicate floral
aroma. They are called lilikoi in Hawaii, and are often
confused with granadillas. They are good for eating
fresh, seeds and all, or the pulp can be strained to
make a smooth coulis which is used in beverages and
sauces. They are grown commercially in Florida,
California, Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand, and in their
native Brazil, and are available in markets through most
of the year.
Pawpaw
- This North American native is often confused
with the papaya because they are both often called
pawpaw. The pawpaw (Asimina triloba) is related to the
cherimoyas and has a similar, custard-like flesh
peppered with hundreds of tiny seeds and with a flavor
reminiscent of bananas.
Peach
- Their succulent flesh and unique flavor make
peaches one of the most popular stone fruits worldwide.
Native to China but known to the people of the
Mediterranean area since ancient times, both its Latin
name and its erstwhile nickname Persian apple hint at
its progress through the Middle East on its journey to
Europe. Most of the fruits of the Prunus persica tree
are round with a pointed end (called a beak), fuzzy
skin, and flesh that is usually described as
peach-colored, but many varieties are flat and
disk-shaped, and the flesh can range from creamy white
to almost red in color. They are generally classified in
two categories: clingstones, whose flesh clings
tenaciously to the pit and are grown primarily for
commercial processing; and freestones, whose flesh
separates easily from the pit and are grown primarily
for the retail market.
Peaches are available fresh year round nearly
everywhere thanks to their global popularity, but are
best during their peak season in late summer. They are
also nearly universally available canned, dried, and in
the form of jams and preserves. They are used in all
manner of dishes, most of them sweet, but can also be
found in savory dishes from the Middle East and Latin
America.
Ripe peaches should yield slightly to gentle
pressure, and ripening can be hastened by storing them
in a paper bag at room temperature. Placing an apple (or
just about any other ripe fruit) in the bag with the
peaches will speed the process. Once ripe, peaches
should be stored in the refrigerator and allowed to come
to room temperature for maximum flavor.
Pear
- Pears rank second only to apples in the number
of varieties in cultivation, but you are a very lucky
person if you live in an area where more than half a
dozen varieties are to be found in markets. Most of them
display their eponymous shape, but some are round and
apple-like in appearance. Their skin ranges in color
from green to yellow, rusty gold, and ruby red when
ripe, and their flesh (which is almost always off-white
or very pale green) ranges from crisp and crunchy to
soft and succulent in texture. The Pyrus communis tree
is native to Europe and Asia, but it is now grown in
temperate climates on every continent except Antarctica.
Although some varieties are considered inedible when raw
and are only used for canning and making preserves, most
of the pears grown around the world are destined to be
eaten out of hand. Pears are easily harvested and travel
well because they can be picked while they’re still
under-ripe-they actually improve in flavor and texture
after being picked, a talent rare among fruits.
Pepino
- With their purple-streaked golden skin, the
fruits of the Solanum muricatum tree of Peru are among
the most attractive of all fruits. Ranging in size from
that a plum to that of a large papaya, the juicy yellow
flesh with its edible seeds is often compared to melons
and pineapples in flavor. Pepinos (also called tree
melons and melon pears) can be eaten out of hand, but
they benefit from some added sugar to counteract their
tartness.
Persimmon
- Hundreds of varieties of persimmons grow
wild throughout the northern hemisphere, but a native of
Japan (Diospyros kaki) is the one we occasionally find
in markets. Most are round or plum-shaped and have a
brilliant orange skin when ripe. The flesh is similarly
colored and very sweet, with a custard-like consistency.
The skin is inedible, as is the entire fruit unless it
is completely ripe-under-ripe fruits are unbelievably
astringent and mouth-puckering. Persimmons continue to
ripen after being picked, and many aficionados let them
sit at room temperature for as much as several weeks in
order to fully ripen them. They are excellent for
out-of-hand eating, and can be dried and used as dates
or dried figs in sweets and baked goods.
Physalis - See cape gooseberry
Pineapple Guava - See feijoa
Pineapple
- A symbol of hospitality since Elizabethan
times when returning seafarers would place one on the
fence post to indicate that the voyager was at home and
receiving visitors, the pineapple was “discovered” by
Columbus when Caribbean islanders shared the fruit they
had been cultivating for thousands of years. The Ananas
comosus is the only member of the enormous family of
bromeliads whose fruit regularly finds its way to our
tables. The large, bulbous fruits with the decorative
topknot of spiked leaves are actually composed of many
individual fruits-each of the diamond-shaped sections on
the skin is a an individual fruit resulting from
individual flowers. Their unique, sweet-tart flavor
makes pineapples a welcome addition to many dishes. They
are used in desserts, pastries, beverages, ice cream,
candies, and every other sort of sweet confection, and
are featured in many savory dishes as well, especially
as a garnish for ham, chicken, and pork. Pineapple can
be grilled, sauteed, battered and fried, baked, poached,
pureed, and preserved, but it is probably best when
eaten fresh and raw. It is almost universally available
fresh, canned, dried, candied, and as pineapple juice. There are several hundred varieties in cultivation
around the world ranging in size from miniature fruits
to whoppers weighing over 10 pounds (4.5 Kg), but they
are rarely sold by name.
Pineapples contain large
amounts of the enzyme bromelin which, like the papain
derived from papayas, is used as a meat tenderizer, and
this same enzyme aids in digestion and makes fresh
pineapple an excellent choice for dessert after a heavy
meal. Bromelin also prevents gelatin from setting, but
cooking destroys the enzyme so only cooked or canned
pineapple (which has been cooked in the canning process)
should be added to gelatin-based desserts.
Choose pineapples that feel heavy for their size, and
buy those that are ripe and ready to eat because,
although they will become less tart after being picked,
they are no longer able to convert starches to sugar and
won’t get any sweeter. Test for ripeness by pulling one
of the lower leaves in the crown-if it detaches easily,
the pineapple is ripe.
Pitahaya - See dragon fruit
Plum-Thousands of varieties of plums are enjoyed
around the world. Their skins can be just about any
color from bright green and yellow to golden orange,
deep red, indigo blue, and dark purple. Their juicy
flesh is a little more consistent in color, usually
yellow or orange. They grow in clusters and range in
size from tiny wild plums the size of olives to larger
cultivated varieties about 3 inches (7 cm) in diameter.
Many species of the Prunus genus (which also includes
peaches, apricots, and almonds) are collectively known
as plums. Most are sweet enough to eat out of hand, but
several are better suited to cooking and preserving in
jams or jellies. Some have bitter, unpalatable skins,
but the skins of most are enjoyably tart and tender.
Most plums are enjoyed raw and fresh. They make
excellent additions to fruit salads and are often cooked
in pies and other pastries. They also appear in jams,
jellies, and preserves, and lend a delicate aroma to
plum brandies and liqueurs.
Dried plums are known as prunes and, although
technically any kind of plum can be dried and called a
prune, several special varieties are grown for this
purpose. Traditionally they were allowed to dry on the
tree giving them a pleasant, winey flavor, but most
modern prunes are produced through sun-drying.
Damson plums (Prunus institia) are dark purple-almost
black-and have a characteristic sweet flavor. They are
sometimes available in American supermarkets, but the
bulk of commercial production goes to can fruit and
preserves.
Buy plums that are firm but yield slightly to
pressure. Under-ripe plums will ripen if allowed to sit
at room temperature for a day or two, and as with most
fruits, ripe plums should be refrigerated to preserve
their flavor and freshness.
Pomegranate
- Some scholars suggest that the apple in
the Garden of Eden was actually a pomegranate, a thesis
supported by the fact that the Punica granatum tree is
native to the Middle East. Probably the most labor
intensive of all fruits, the small white seeds are
covered by a translucent pink or red flesh and must be
coaxed from the inedible yellow pith that runs seemingly
at random throughout the fruit. The skin is thick and
leather-like, and usually deep red or gold in color.
The seeds can be eaten whole, or the tart flesh can
be removed by squeezing or gently straining through a
sieve. They make an attractive garnish to salads and
savory dishes, and in India they are added to meat
dishes. The juice is used in sauces and beverages, and
is made into the sweet syrup known as grenadine.
Nowadays most brands of grenadine contain little more
than sugar syrup and food coloring, so be sure to read
the label if it’s the real thing you’re after. A
concentrated form of pomegranate juice known as
pomegranate molasses is currently a de rigueur condiment
to trend-following chefs and is available in gourmet
shops and Middle Eastern specialty stores.
Pomelo
- The big boy of the citrus family, the fruits
of the aptly-named Citrus maxima can weigh up to 25
pounds (11 Kg), but smaller fruits are much more common.
Usually about the size of a small cantaloupe, the very
thick yellow skin surrounds segments of pink flesh which
vary in juiciness and sweetness. Also called shaddock
(after the sea captain who introduced the trees to the
West Indies from their native Malaysia) and Chinese
grapefruit, they have the same culinary applications as
grapefruits.
Pomes
- A group of fruits characterized by thin skins,
firm flesh, and a central core containing several small
seeds called pips. Pomes are members of the family Rosaceae and include apples, pears, quinces, and
medlars. See individual listings for details on each
type of pome.
Prickly Pear
- The small barrel-shaped fruits of
several species of Opuntia cactus, prickly pears live up
to their name with the small, sharp spines that dot
their skin. The flesh can be yellow, pink, orange, red,
or garnet colored, and has small edible seeds dispersed
throughout. The thick peel is easily removed-provided
gloves or tongs are used to hold the potentially painful
fruit. They have a sweet, albeit nondescript, flavor.
Prickly pears (also called cactus pears, Indian pears,
Indian figs, and barbary figs) are excellent for eating
out of hand and make wonderful jams and jellies. They
are very popular in their native range in the American
Southwest, Mexico, Central and South America, and are
often available in supermarkets from late fall through
early spring.
Prune - See plum
Quince
- Technically speaking, quinces are edible in
their raw state but they have an astringent, bitter
taste and are always cooked. They have been grown for at
least 4,000 years, and were valued by the ancient Greeks
and Romans for the fragrance of their flowers as well as
for their fruit. There are two species of quinces in
cultivation: one with round, apple-shaped fruits
(Cydonia vulgaris), and one with oblong, pear-shaped
fruits (C. oblongata). The fuzzy green or yellow skin
gradually becomes smooth and the fruit matures. They
aren’t as popular in the Americas as they are in Europe
(Spain is a major producer of dulce de membrillo, a
thick, sweet quince paste), but are sometimes available
in the fall.
Rambutan
- Picture an exotic fruit from the planet
Uranus and you might wind up with something that looks
like a rambutan-the golf-ball-sized fruits have a thick
red skin with dozens of long, soft, curled green spines
pointing in all directions. The sweet flesh is
translucent white and surrounds a large, inedible seed,
similar to the litchi, a close relative. The Nephelium
lappaceum tree is native to Malaysia, and its bizarre
fruits are rarely seen outside of Southeast Asia.
Raspberry
- It shouldn’t come as too much of a
surprise to anyone who has ever tangled with a raspberry
plant that they are members of the Rose family. Rubus
idaeus grows wild in temperate climates throughout the
northern hemisphere, and like most berries, was
certainly enjoyed by our most distant ancestors. Many
people consider them the most flavorful of berries, and
they rival strawberries in worldwide production and
popularity.
Raspberries are compound fruits in that each
individual drupelet is a whole fruit with its own seed,
and come in three categories according to their color:
yellow (or golden), black, and red, with the red berries
being by far the most common. Raspberries are
distinguished from their close relative blackberries by
the fact that, when picked, the central pith of the
fruit (the hull) remains on the plant with raspberries
(resulting in a hollow core in ripe raspberries), and
remains in the fruit in the case of blackberries
(resulting in a cottony mass in the core). Black
raspberries and blackberries would be indistinguishable
to the layman if not for this convenient fact.
Raspberries do not ripen or become sweeter after that
are picked and should be eaten as soon as possible after
buying. Rinse them very gently if you must, but be
prepared to bruise some berries if you do. Every
raspberry lover will tell you that they taste best raw
and fresh from the bush (bramble, if you want to get
technical), but they are also used extensively in
fillings for pastries, to make jams, jellies, and
syrups, and to flavor everything from gelatin and candy
to wines, ales, liqueurs, soft drinks, and vinegars.
Rhubarb
- Although the fruits of many plants are
treated as vegetables in the kitchen, only one vegetable
is habitually treated as a fruit. The stalks of the
rhubarb plant (Rheum rhabarbarum) must be sweetened
during cooking and are considered too tart to be eaten
raw. Their startling sourness comes primarily from
oxalic acid, and the leaves of the plant contain such
high concentrations of oxalic acid that they are
considered poisonous. The stalks range in color from
pale green through vibrant pink to deep red.
Greenhouse-grown rhubarb, which is more subdued in
flavor and color than the field-grown crop, is available
nearly year round in many places, but many people prefer
the field-grown stalks for their more pronounced color
and flavor, and therefore confine their rhubarb
purchases to early spring when rhubarb is at its best.
Rhubarb makes a wonderful filling for pies and tarts,
and is often combined with strawberries in the United
States, and with ginger in the UK.
Rose Hip
- The round yellow, orange, or red fruits of
rose bushes (Rosa genus) are too bitter to be eaten raw,
but when cooked with sugar they make bitter-sweet
jellies and syrups. They contain extremely hairy seeds
which must be removed before cooking. They are so high
in vitamin C (a single rose hip can contain twenty times
as much as an orange) that they are sold in powdered
form in health food stores.
Rowanberry
- The small, brightly colored red-orange
berries of the mountain ash tree (Sorbus aucuparia)
can’t be eaten raw, but they make a bittersweet jelly
and can be used in syrups and liqueurs.
Santol
- The fruits of the Sandoricum koetjape tree of
Southeast Asia come in two varieties: sweet, and sour.
Both are medium-sized round fruits with a tough brown
outer skin surrounding five segments of white pulp. Some
people liken the flavor to peaches, and they can be
eaten out of hand, candied, or pickled.
Sapodilla
- With a flavor that people have likened to
vanilla-flavored banana custard and brown sugar,
sapodillas ought to be more popular than they are.
Unremarkable in appearance, the small, egg-shaped fruits
are light brown in color with a fuzzy exterior. The
inside reveals sweet, amber-colored flesh with inedible
black seeds. They are best eaten raw when ripe (unripe
fruit has a mouth-puckering effect), scooped out of the
skin with a spoon, but they are also used in ice cream,
custards, and as a filling for pastries. The sap of the
same tree (Achras sapote, a native of Central America)
was known as chicle to the Maya and is the main
ingredient in chewing gum.
Sapote
- These ovoid fruits, about the size of a small
orange, have a skin that ranges in color from chartreuse
to bright yellow, and flesh that ranges in color from
ivory to salmon. The soft flesh, which surrounds 3 to 5
inedible seeds, has a flavor reminiscent of peach,
avocado, and vanilla. Native to Central America and the
Caribbean, the fruits of the Pouteria sapota tree are
also known as white sapotes and are sometimes available
in specialty produce markets in the fall.
Satsuma - See tangerine
Shaddock - See pomelo
Sloe
- These tiny members of the plum family (Prunus
spinosa) grow on the blackthorn shrub which grows wild
throughout Europe. The small purple fruits look like
miniature plums, but the flesh is so astringent that
they are inedible raw, and they are best picked when
fully ripe and after the first frost of the year. They
are made into jams and jellies, but their primary claim
to fame is as the flavoring in sloe gin.
Snake Fruit
- With a thin, scaly brown skin that looks
just like reptile skin, it’s no secret how the fruits
also known as salaks came by their more common name. The
pear-shaped fruits of the Zalacci edulis tree of
Southeast Asia are about the size of a large hen’s egg.
The ivory-toned flesh surrounds a large inedible seed in
each of four segments. Almost flavorless, or with a
slight hint of apples, the crisp flesh is often added to
fruit salads and can be poached in syrup.
Soursop
- Soursops are the biggest member of the
cherimoya family with fruits often reaching 10 pounds
(4.5 Kg) in weight. The Annona muricata tree is native
to the Caribbean region, and its fruits are rarely
encountered far from their native range. Like their
cousins, they have a thin, soft skin and are divided
into hundreds of segments containing soft, ivory-colored
flesh surrounding large inedible seeds. The flesh is
sweet and tart and often compared to pineapples in
flavor. Also called prickly custard apples (for the
short soft spines on their skin) and bullock’s hearts.
Star Fruit - See carambola
Stone Fruits
- A group of fruits characterized by thin
skins, soft, juicy flesh, and a single woody pit called
a stone. Stone fruits, also known as drupes, are all
members of the genus Prunus and include plums, peaches,
apricots, and cherries. See individual listings for
details on each type of stone fruit.
Strawberry
- Trivia experts know that strawberries
have the distinction of being the only fruit that bears
its seeds on the outside, but this isn’t exactly true.
The small, hard “seeds” are actually the fruits (called achenes) of the plants of the
Fragaria genus, and the
fleshy red organ they sit on is actually the swollen
base of the flower and not the ovary. Strawberries grow
wild in temperate climates around the world and have
been prized for their sweet flavor since prehistoric
times.
Modern strawberries are the result of a cross between
the wild Virginia strawberry of North America and the
pine strawberry from South America, and hundreds of
varieties are available year round just about everywhere
thanks to greenhouse production. In spite of this near
universal availability, strawberry lovers know that they
never taste better than when they’re in season in the
spring. Wild strawberries are usually called by their
French name fraises des bois (“strawberries of the
woods”) and are popular and widely available in Europe.
They tend to be smaller than modern strawberries and are
often yellow or pink rather than their trademark red,
and have a flavor that is usually described as intense.
Strawberries do not improve after being picked so it
is best to buy the ripest berries available and to eat
them as soon as possible. Color and size are poor
indicators of quality because smaller, yellowish
strawberries often have a sweeter, more pronounced
flavor-always sample one before you buy if your market
will allow. Strawberries absorb water readily so don’t
wash them until you eat them, if at all-sometimes a
gentle wipe is all that’s needed. If you can’t eat them
right away, store them loosely wrapped in paper towels
in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to
two days, and always let them return to room temperature
before serving them.
Strawberries are available in almost every
conceivable form, including frozen, dried, candied,
pureed, and preserved in jams and jellies, but they are
best when they’re fresh. Fresh ripe strawberries are
traditionally served with nothing more than a dollop of
thick cream and maybe a sprinkling of sugar, but a
grinding of black pepper or a few drops of balsamic
vinegar complement the unique sweet-tart flavor of
strawberries beautifully.
Sweetsop
- Like its close cousin the cherimoya,
sweetsops (Annona squamosa) are irregular, lumpy fruits
with yellowish-green skins and soft, custard-like
ivory-colored flesh surrounding large black seeds
arranged in segments. It has a pronounced clove-like
flavor and is almost always eaten raw. They are grown
commercially in Florida and California yet are rarely
available outside of these areas. These Central American
natives are also known as sugar apples, and are often
confused with cherimoyas (which are also called custard
apples).
Tamarillo
- It’s ironic that this South American fruit
is more popular in parts of Asia, Australia, and New
Zealand than in North America. Also called tree
tomatoes, the egg-shaped berries of the Cyphomandra
betecea plant, a relative of eggplants and tomatoes,
have a smooth skin ranging from purple to yellow,
although most that reach the market are a bright
tomato-red. The tart flesh surrounds numerous black
seeds and needs the sweetness of added sugar to be
palatable. Don’t try to eat the skin which is extremely
bitter. Tamarillos can be used to add a distinctive
tartness to jams, jellies, chutneys, and sauces.
Tangelo - See tangerine
Tangerine
- This large family of citrus fruits is
characterized by small fruits with thin skin that is
easily detached from the flesh. Also known as mandarin
oranges (or just mandarins) in much of the
English-speaking world, there are several varieties on
the market whose names are often used
interchangeably-and inaccurately.
Clementines are true tangerines (Citrus reticulata)
and are the most commonly found variety in most areas.
Satsumas, also true tangerines, are native to Japan and
are sometimes available fresh in the United States, but
are most likely to be found canned and labeled as
mandarin orange segments. Ortaniques, grown mainly in
Jamaica, are believed to be a cross between a satsuma
and an ugli. Tangelos are crosses between tangerines and
grapefruits and are noteworthy for their orange-like
flavor. Minneolas, also the hybrid of tangerines and
grapefruits, are recognizable for the lump at the stem
end of the fruit and are seedless, sweet, and juicy.
Tangerines are usually eaten out of hand or added to
salads, and canned mandarin oranges are a common
ingredient in many gelatin salads and desserts. The
dried peel is a standard seasoning in China where it is
used in both sweet and savory dishes.
Ugli Fruit
- Pronounced OO-glee, no matter how you say
it, the thick, mottled skin of this hybrid citrus will
never win it any beauty contests. Believed to be a cross
between a grapefruit (or possibly a pomelo) and a
tangerine (or possibly an orange), the fruits are
usually about the size of a grapefruit and can be
treated as such in the kitchen. The flavor is like a
sweet grapefruit with a hint of orange.
Watermelon
- One of the few commercial fruits native
to Africa, the Citrullus lanatus vine grows wild
throughout much of southern Africa. With fruits weighing
less than five pounds (2.2 Kg) and more than 40 pounds
(18 Kg) or even larger, they are also one of the most
variable in size. Their skins are striped in shades of
green, and the watery flesh can be almost white, bright
yellow, vivid pink, or cherry red. The large edible
seeds can be black, brown, white, or mottled, and
selective breeding has produced “seedless” varieties
with seeds that never develop beyond their soft white
embryonic stage. Choose watermelons with a yellow patch
that indicates where it was in contact with the ground-a
white or green patch indicates an under-ripe melon. In
spite of their status as a fixture at Fourth of July
cookouts, more watermelons are grown and consumed in
China than anywhere else. All parts of the watermelon
are edible; the seeds can be roasted or fried, and the
rind is often pickled and served as a condiment.
Watermelons should be stored in the refrigerator and
served chilled. The flavor is delicate (or even drab
according to some), but people everywhere know that
nothing tastes better than a slice of cold watermelon on
a hot summer day.
Yuzu
- This small citrus is native to Tibet and China.
About the size of a small tangerine, the fruits of the
Citrus aurantium tree are greenish-yellow inside and
out, and contain many small seeds. The juice and the
rind are used in Japanese cooking, and fresh yuzu can
sometimes be found in Asian specialty markets. Bottled
yuzu juice is a popular ingredient in many Japanese
sauces and marinades, and is becoming more widely
available outside of Japan.
©
2005 Worldwide Recipes. All rights reserved.
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