The Cooking of Italy

Index of Recipes

Starters (Antipasti)

Bagna Cauda
Goat Cheese and Garlic Spread (Crema Formaggio all'Olio)
Grilled Mozzarella Sandwiches (Mozzarella in Carrozza)
Leek Frittata (Frittata ai Porri)
Marinated Beef (Carne Cruda)
Potato and Pancetta Frittata (Frittata con le Patate e Pancetta)
Seafood Salad (Insalata di Mare)
Shrimp with Beans (Gamberi e Fagioli)
Shrimp with Oil and Lemon (Gamberi all'Olio e Limone)
Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna (Pomodori al Tonno)

Soups (Zuppe)

Bean Soup (Zuppa di Cannellini)
Cold Tomato Soup (Zuppa di Pomodoro Fredda)
Egg-Drop and Zucchini Soup (Stracciatella alle Zucchine)
Italian Wedding Soup (Polpettine in Brodo)
Lentil Soup (Zuppa di Lenticchie)
Onion Soup (Zuppa di Cipolle)
Tomato Bread Soup (Pappa al Pomodoro)
Zuppa alla Pavese

Salads (Insalate)

Arugula and Fennel Salad (Insalata di Rucola e Finocchio)
Asparagus Salad (Asparagi in Insalata)
Celery Salad with Anchovy Dressing (Insalata di Sedano)
Olive Salad (Insalata di Olive)
Tomato and Mozzarella Salad (Insalata Caprese)

First Courses (Primi Piati)

Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese)
Butter and Tomato Sauce (Sugo al Burro e Pomodoro)
Lemon Risotto (Risotto al Limone)
Linguine with Pesto and Tomatoes (Linguine al Pesto e Pomodori)
Milanese Risotto (Risotto alla Milanese)
Mushroom Risotto (Risotto ai Funghi)
Pasta with Butter and Cheese (Pasta al Burro e Formaggio)
Pasta with Peppers (Pasta Peperonata)
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Spaghetti with Olives and Capers (Spaghetti alla Vesuviana)

Side Dishes (Contorni)

Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane)
Fried Artichoke Hearts (Carciofi Friti)
Mashed Potatoes with Parmesan Cheese (Puré di Patate al Parmigiano)
Peppers in Vinegar (Peperoni in Aceto)
Sauteed Broccoli (Broccoli Saltati)
Stuffed Onions (Cipolle Ripiene)

Main Dishes (Secondi Piati)

Braised Lamb Shanks (Stinchi di Agnello)
Calf's Liver Venetian Style (Fegato alla Veneziana)
Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto and Cheese (Petti di Pollo alla Bolognese)
Chicken Breasts with Sage (Petti di Pollo alla Salvia)
Grilled Fish with Oregano Sauce (Pesce al Salmoriglio)
Lamb Stew with Olives (Spezzatino di Agnello alle Olive)
Mixed Boiled Meats (Bollito Misto)
Neapolitan Beef Rolls (Braciole Napolitane)
Shrimp Venetian-Style (Scampi alla Veneziana)
Tuna with Tomatoes and Bay Leaves (Tonno al Pomodoro e Alloro)

Desserts (Dolci)

Almond Cake (Torta di Mandorle)
Cassata
Chimney Sweep Ice Cream (Gelato Spazzacamino)
Chocolate Cake (Torta di Cioccolato)
Chocolate Flan (Budini di Cioccolato)
Diplomat Cake (Il Diplomatico)
Italian Ices (Granite)
Rice Cake (Torta di Riso)
Ricotta Ice Cream (Gelato di Ricotta)
Tiramisu
Zuppa Inglese

Starters (Antipasti)


The bagna cauda (hot bath, or sauce) can be found in all parts of Italy, and are usually based on a hot sauce made of olive oil, garlic, and anchovies. This version from Italy's northernmost and westernmost region of Piedmont uses cream instead of olive oil. It is usually served as an appetizer in restaurants, although it does duty as a main course in many Italian homes.

Bagna Cauda

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
8 anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped garlic
Fresh vegetables of your choice, such as cucumbers, carrots, fennel, sweet bell peppers, celery, scallions, romaine lettuce, tomatoes, and mushrooms, cut into a size and shape suitable for dipping
Italian bread sticks or Italian bread

Simmer the cream over a low flame, uncovered, in a small saucepan for about 20 minutes, or until reduced to about half its original volume. In a fondue pot or other flame-proof enameled or earthenware casserole that fits over a candle warmer or electric hot tray, melt the butter over low heat. Add the anchovies and the garlic and stir for about 1 minute. Add the reduced cream and bring the sauce to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Do not let the sauce boil. Serve immediately with the cold raw vegetables and the bread sticks or Italian bread for dipping. If the butter and the cream separate at the table, recombine them using a wire whisk. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer, 3 to 4 as a main dish.

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This simple dish can be spread on toasted bread, or used as a dip with breadsticks or raw vegetables.

Goat Cheese and Garlic Spread (Crema Formaggio all'Olio)

8 oz (225 g) mild goat cheese
1 Tbs (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl and serve immediately, or refrigerate covered for up to 3 days. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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These little sandwiches, called "mozzarella in a carriage" because they resemble little cartwheels, are an elegant variation on the grilled cheese sandwich.

Grilled Mozzarella Sandwiches (Mozzarella in Carrozza)

1 loaf French or Italian bread, cut into 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick slices
1 lb (450 g) fresh mozzarella cheese
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) dry bread crumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 eggs, lightly beaten with 2 Tbs (30 ml) milk
Vegetable oil for frying

Cut the bread into 3-inch (8 cm) rounds using a cookie cutter or the rim of a small glass. Cut the mozzarella into slices 1/4-inch (5 mm) thick and slightly smaller in diameter than the bread slices. Make sandwiches of the bread and cheese and briefly dip each into the milk. Season the bread crumbs with salt and pepper. Seal the edges of the sandwiches by pressing them gently, and coat thoroughly with the bread crumbs, rolling the sandwiches in the bread crumbs like a cartwheel to coat the edges. Heat the oil to 375F (190C) in a deep fryer or large skillet. Dip the sandwiches in the egg mixture and fry in the hot oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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These open-faced omelets are popular all over Italy where they may be served as an antipasto or as the main course of a light meal. They also appear as snacks at any time of day or night, and are frequently used as a sandwich filling.

Leek Frittata (Frittata ai Porri)

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter or olive oil
2-3 medium leeks, white and tender green parts, cut into 1/2-inch (2 cm) slices and thoroughly rinsed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the butter in a large skillet, preferably non-stick, over moderate heat and saute the leeks for about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and cook covered for 15 minutes. Combine the eggs and cheese in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the egg mixture to the skillet and stir to combine. Cook until the bottom is browned and the top is still runny, 6 to 8 minutes. Place under a preheated broiler until the top id lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Slide the frittata onto a serving platter and serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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An upscale version of this traditional dish was invented at Harry's Bar in Venice in 1961 and was dubbed Carpaccio after the Italian painter known for using red in his paintings. Think of this as the Northern Italian version of steak tartare and enjoy.

Marinated Beef (Carne Cruda)

1-1/2 lbs (450-675 g) beef tenderloin (filet mignon), firmed in the freezer for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) cubes
1 cup (250 ml) chopped arugula (rocket)
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped parsley leaves
1/3 cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and toss to combine. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Frittatas, the Italian version of an open-faced omelet, are as versatile as they are easy to cook. They can be served warm, chilled, or at room temperature, and they are often served on bread, sandwich style. Use a non-stick skillet for best results, but be sure that the handle is oven-proof.

Potato and Pancetta Frittata (Frittata con le Patate e Pancetta)

3/4 lb (340 g) boiling potatoes, peeled and diced
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil or butter
2 onions, thinly sliced
6 oz (170 g) pancetta, thinly sliced and cut into
1-inch (2 cm) strips
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
5-6 eggs, beaten

Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the onions until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the pancetta and continue cooking until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Add the eggs and potatoes and continue cooking over moderate heat until the eggs have set on the bottom and only the top is runny. Place under a preheated broiler and cook until the top is set and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve warm, chilled, or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish, or ones very similar to it, is found in nearly every eating establishment in Italy. The secret to tender, flavorful seafood is to avoid overcooking it, and this method guarantees excellent results. Fortunately, frozen squid that has already been cleaned is available almost everywhere so you don't have to do this rather unpleasant kitchen chore yourself.

Seafood Salad (Insalata di Mare)

4 cups (1 L) water
1 Tbs (15 ml) salt
3 Tbs (45 ml) red wine vinegar
1/2 lb (225 g) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and halved lengthwise
1/2 lb (225 g) squid, cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch (2 cm) pieces
1/2 lb (225 g) sea scallops, halved horizontally
1 tomato, cut into thin wedges
1 15-oz (425 g) can cannellini beans, drained
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh herb such as parsley, marjoram, or basil
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Place the water, salt, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the vinegar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp and remove 1 minute after the water has returned to a boil. Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Repeat this process using the same water with the squid and scallops. Combine the cooked seafood with the remaining vinegar, tomato, cannellini, fresh herbs, olive oil, and salt to taste in a mixing bowl and toss gently to combine. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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The vinegar in the water used to boil the shrimp gives them a subtle but distinct aroma of freshness. Use frozen shrimp unless you happen to know a shrimp fisherman who sells them on the dock.

Shrimp with Beans (Gamberi e Fagioli)

1 lb (450 g) thawed frozen shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) cannellini or Great Northern beans, rinsed and drained
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cook the shrimp in 4 quarts (4 L) of boiling salted water to which the vinegar has been added. Cook just until the shrimp are cooked through, about 1 minutes after the water has returned to the boil. Drain and combine with the remaining ingredients in a bowl, tossing to combine. Serve war, chilled, or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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Fresh seafood is so abundant in Italy that the Italians often serve it as an antipasto and then again for the main dish. This dish is about as simple as they come.

Shrimp with Oil and Lemon (Gamberi all'Olio e Limone)

2 lbs (900 g) large shrimp
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice

Bring about 1 gallon (4 L) salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the shrimp and vinegar and return to the boil. Cook for 1 minute after the water returns to the bowl and drain. Cool enough to handle the shrimp and peel and devein them. Toss with the olive oil and lemon juice and serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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It is the tradition in my family that a person gets to choose the menu for their birthday dinner. Naturally, that meant that my mother prepared whatever we wanted for all those years, and being the only cook in the house was treated to dinner in a fine restaurant on her own birthday. When I finally became able enough in the kitchen to put together a meal worthy of an occasion such as her birthday, this was the first course that I served.

Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna (Pomodori al Tonno)

6 ripe tomatoes
Salt
2-7 oz (195 g) cans tuna packed in olive oil, drained
1/2 cup (125 ml) plus 2 Tbs (30 ml) mayonnaise
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Parsley leaves for garnish

Slice the tops off the tomatoes and scoop out the seeds and most of the dividing walls inside. Sprinkle the insides of the tomatoes lightly with salt and invert on paper towels for 1/2 hour to drain the excess moisture. Mix together the tuna, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the mayonnaise, capers, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper, and fill the tomatoes with the tuna mixture. Spread the remaining mayonnaise on top, and garnish with parsley leaves. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 6.

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Soups (Zuppe)


This classic Italian dish is virtually all beans with very little broth, and is frequently served as a side dish. If you would like yours more on the soupy side, simply add more stock.

Bean Soup (Zuppa di Cannellini)

1/2 cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) cannellini, white kidney, or other white beans, drained
1 cup (250 ml) chicken, beef, or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Toasted slices of Italian bread

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the garlic until light golden brown. Add the parsley and stir. Add the beans, stock, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Puree about 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the beans in a food processor or by pressing them through a fine sieve and stir into the soup. Serve over toasted bread. Serves 4 to 6.

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I have published dozens of tomato soup recipes over the years, both hot and cold, but I have never published a cold tomato soup recipe from Italy. Until now.

Cold Tomato Soup (Zuppa di Pomodoro Fredda)

3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for garnish
1/2 onion, chopped
2 lbs (900 g) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-2 cups (250-500 ml) chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
About 4 oz (110 g) goat cheese

Heat the oil in a pot over moderate heat and saute the onion until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Saute for 5 minutes, then lower the heat, add the stock, and simmer covered for 30 minutes. Puree the soup in an electric blender or food processor and set aside to cool. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Garnish with the cucumber, a dollop of goat cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil immediately before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic Italian soup translates as "little rags" thanks to the tiny pieces of cooked egg floating in the broth. It is often made without vegetables, but versions including various leafy greens and other vegetables are common.

Egg-Drop and Zucchini Soup (Stracciatella alle Zucchine)

2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 lbs (375 ml) zucchini (courgettes), diced
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) canned beef stock
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) canned chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped parsley
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped fresh basil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a large heavy soup pot over moderate heat. Saute the onion and zucchini until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Add the stocks and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Stir the remaining ingredients together in a small bowl. Immediately before serving, slowly pour the egg mixture into the simmering broth while stirring. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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This soup is simply called "meatballs in broth" in Italy, but somehow it came to be associated with weddings in the United States.

Italian Wedding Soup (Polpettine in Brodo)

2 cups (500 ml) canned beef stock
2 cups (500 ml) canned chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 slice white bread, crust removed
1 Tbs (15 ml) milk
1/2 lb (225 g) ground veal, pork, or beef
1 egg
2 Tbs (30 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional for garnish
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine the beef and chicken stocks and water in a pot and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Place the bread and milk in a mixing bowl and mash with a fork to make a smooth paste. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Form into small meatballs about 1/2 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Place in the simmering stock and cook for 10 minutes. Serve garnished with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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Lentil soup is one of my favorites, and there is a quite acceptable canned variety sold in US supermarkets under an Italian brand name. This recipe, however, puts that one to shame. Try it and I'm sure you'll agree.

Lentil Soup (Zuppa di Lenticchie)

3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped pancetta or unsmoked bacon or unsmoked ham
1 15-oz (425 g) can of Italian tomatoes, chopped, with their liquid
1 lb (450 g) dried lentils
4 cups (1 L) chicken, beef, or vegetable stock
3 cups (750 ml) water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the onion, celery, and carrots until tender and lightly browned. Add the pancetta, bacon, or ham, and the tomatoes with their liquid and simmer uncovered over low heat for 20 minutes. Add the lentils, stock, and water. Simmer covered, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes, or until the lentils are tender. Some lentils absorb more liquid than others, so adjust the amount of liquid if necessary by adding more stock or water. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 6 to 8.

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Similar to the famous French onion soup, the Italian version uses olive oil instead of butter, a light meat stock rather than the classic French beef stock, and pecorino cheese instead of gruyere. Other than those things, they're almost identical.

Onion Soup (Zuppa di Cipolle)

3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 lbs (900 g) onions, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine
2 cups (500 ml) beef or chicken stock, or mixture of the two
2 cups (500 ml) water
4-6 thick slices crusty Italian-style bread, toasted
Pecorino cheese for garnish

Heat the oil in a pot over moderate heat and add the onions, salt, and pepper. Saute until the onions begin to brown, about 10 minutes, then lower the heat and continue cooking until the onions are lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high, add the stock and water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 30 minutes. To serve, place a slice of toasted bread in each bowl, ladle the soup over the bread, and use a vegetable peeler to garnish with shavings of the pecorino cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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"Pappa" is a word that describes bread cooked in broth, and the word is also used to describe baby food. This dish is considered so healthy and nutritious that it is often served to infants. If you don't have any stale bread you can just dry some in a warm oven for a few minutes.

Tomato Bread Soup (Pappa al Pomodoro)

3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) chicken or beef stock, or equal parts of both
1-1/2 lbs (450-675 g) tomatoes, coarsely chopped
15-20 leaves fresh basil, shredded
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 cups (500-750 ml) 3/4-inch (2 cm) cubes of day-old bread

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the garlic until it is lightly browned. Remove and discard the garlic. Add the stock, tomatoes, basil, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Add the bread, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 20 minutes before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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Although this soup is well know throughout Italy, it originated in the northern region of Lombardy and is peasant cooking at its best-simple and delicious.

Zuppa alla Pavese

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
4 slices Italian bread, about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) thick
4 cups (1 L) chicken stock
4 eggs (as fresh as possible)
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat and fry the bread, turning it, until it is golden brown on both sides. Place a slice of bread in each of four soup bowls. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring 2 inches (5 cm) of water to a simmer in a large skillet, and gently put the eggs into the water by first breaking the eggs, one at a time, into a cup or saucer, and then letting them slide into the water, disturbing the water as little as possible. Do not let the water boil. Poach the eggs for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the firmness you prefer, and then remove them from the water with a slotted spoon, allowing them to drain on a paper towel for a few seconds before placing them on the slices of bread. Sprinkle the eggs and bread with Parmesan cheese and ladle the stock around the bread. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

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Salads (Insalate)


This simple salad using traditional Italian ingredients benefits from the peppery spiciness of the arugula and the crisp refreshing flavor of the fennel. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the Parmesan for the garnish just like they do in the finest restaurants.

Arugula and Fennel Salad (Insalata di Rucola e Finocchio)

1-2 bunches arugula (depending on size), thick stems removed
1-2 fennel bulbs (depending on size), very thinly sliced
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Shavings of Parmesan cheese for garnish

Combine the arugula and fennel in a salad bowl. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and toss with the greens. Garnish with shavings of Parmesan. Serves 4 to 6.

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The term "in insalata" indicates that a vegetable is dressed with oil and vinegar like a salad, and these dishes are almost always served at room temperature. They can be served as salads or as "contorni" (side dishes) with the main dish.

Asparagus Salad (Asparagi in Insalata)

1 1/2-2 lbs (675-900 g) asparagus, trimmed
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish (optional)

Boil or steam the asparagus just until they are tender. Transfer to a platter and allow to cool to room temperature. Drain off any water in the platter, drizzle with oil and vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with chopped parsley if desired. May be made several hours ahead, but do not refrigerate. Serves 4 to 6.

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This salad is best eaten immediately after adding the dressing in order to prevent the celery from becoming limp and soggy.

Celery Salad with Anchovy Dressing (Insalata di Sedano)

1 head of celery, about 1 1/2 lbs (675 g)
6 Tbs (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cans (2 oz, 56 g each) anchovy fillets in olive oil (use the oil as well as the anchovies)
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Separate the head of celery into individual ribs and cut into 3-inch (8 cm) lengths. Make "flowers" by making several cuts about 1/3 the length of the pieces of celery and placing in a bowl of ice water in the refrigerator until they fan out into the shape of flowers. This works best if the celery is soaked in the ice water for at least 2 hours. Combine the remaining ingredients in an electric blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Drain the celery and pat dry with a towel. Toss with the dressing and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.

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This quick and easy dish requires no cooking, and can be served as part of an antipasto platter or as a side dish.

Olive Salad (Insalata di Olive)

1 cup (250 ml) drained pimiento-stuffed green olives, coarsely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) red wine vinegar
1/2 tsp (2 ml) grated lemon zest
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried oregano
1/4 tsp (1 ml) hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss to combine. Refrigerate covered for at least 2 hours, and up to 2 days before serving at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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You can get away with the mealy, flavorless tomatoes that are available year round for many dishes, but this classic salad from the Isle of Capri requires only the best tomatoes picked red and ripe from the vine. Naturally, a dish a simple as this also demands the best quality mozzarella, basil, and olive oil, so be sure to avoid the pre-sliced cheese, limp basil, and everyday olive oil.

Tomato and Mozzarella Salad (Insalata Caprese)

4 large ripe tomatoes, sliced
12 oz (340 g) fresh mozzarella, sliced
1-1 1/2 cups (250-375 ml) fresh basil leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Salt to taste

Arrange the tomatoes and mozzarella in alternating slices on a serving platter. Sprinkle with the basil leaves. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and season with salt immediately before serving. Do not refrigerate prior to serving and serve at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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First Courses (Primi Piati)


"Ragu" is a generic term used to describe meat sauces, and every home and restaurant in Italy has its own variation on the theme. Most include tomatoes, as does this classic version from Bologna in northern Italy. Serve it over the pasta of your choice for an authentic taste of Italy.

Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese)

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
12 oz (340 g) ground beef
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
1 cup (250 ml) milk
A grating of fresh nutmeg
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) whole peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their liquid
1 lb (450 g) pasta of your choice, cooked according to package directions
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

Heat the butter and olive oil in a pot over moderate heat and saute the onion, carrot, and celery until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beef has lost its pink color. Add the wine and cook until it is mostly evaporated. Add the milk and cook until it is mostly evaporated. Add the nutmeg and tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting so the pot is barely simmering and cook uncovered until all the liquid has evaporated, about 3 hours. Ladle the sauce over the cooked pasta and serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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Rather than providing a recipes for an actual dish today, I offer up a classic Italian sauce to be used on the pasta of your choice. This sauce would also be a fitting finish for just about any seafood or chicken.

Butter and Tomato Sauce (Sugo al Burro e Pomodoro)

2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) whole peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their liquid
6 Tbs (90 ml) butter
1 onion, halved
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) pasta of your choice, cooked according to package directions
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

Combine all the ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until all the liquid has evaporated, 30 to 45 minutes. Discard the onion before serving. Ladle the sauce over the cooked pasta and serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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This fragrant rice dish goes great with just about everything, but I think it is particularly well suited to a meal of fish or seafood.

Lemon Risotto (Risotto al Limone)

3 cups (750 ml) chicken or beef stock
3 cups (750 ml) water
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 3/4 cups (430 ml) Arborio rice
Salt to taste
The grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Combine the stock and water in a pot and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Heat half the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes. Add about 1 cup (250 ml) of the broth mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until almost all the liquid has been absorbed before adding more. Continue cooking and adding liquid, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Add half the grated lemon zest and all of the lemon juice. Continue cooking and adding more liquid as needed until the rice is tender but still firm-"al dente"-about 5 to 10 minutes more. Immediately before serving stir in the remaining butter and grated Parmesan, and garnish with the remaining lemon zest. Serves 4 to 6.

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Prepared basil pesto is widely available these days from a number of manufacturers, but none of them can hold a candle to the homemade version. Use the store-bought kind if you're in a hurry, but I've included the recipe below for those who want to go the extra mile.

Linguine with Pesto and Tomatoes (Linguine al Pesto e Pomodori)

1/2 cup (125 ml) pesto Genovese (recipe below)
2-3 tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) linguine or other pasta shape, cooked
according to the package directions and drained

Combine the pesto, tomatoes, and 2 to 3 tablespoons (30-45 ml) of the boiling pasta water in a large bowl. Add the cooked pasta and toss to combine. Serves 4 to 6.

Pesto Genovese

2 cups (500 ml) fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup (125 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 Tbs (45 ml) pine nuts (pignoli)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tsp (5 ml) salt, or to taste

Combine all ingredients in and electric blender and process until smooth, stopping the blender once or twice to scrape down the sides of the jar. When serving with pasta, "loosen" the sauce with a little bit of the boiling water from the pasta pot. Makes about 2 cups (500 ml).

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Traditional recipes for this risotto call for beef marrow, but since that may not be available to all of my readers I have eliminated it from this recipe.

Milanese Risotto (Risotto alla Milanese)

4 cups (1 L) beef broth
2 Tbs (30 ml) diced prosciutto
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped shallots or yellow onion
5 Tbs (75 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
2 cups (500 ml) raw arborio rice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) powdered or finely chopped saffron
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) Parmesan cheese

Bring the broth to slow simmer. In a separate pot saute the prosciutto and shallots in 3 Tbs (45 ml) of the butter and all of the oil. Add the rice as soon as the shallots become translucent and stir until the rice is well coated with the fat. Add about 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the broth and stir frequently until most of the broth has been absorbed. Continue adding the broth 1/2 cup (125 ml) at a time, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Add the saffron and continue adding broth as it becomes absorbed, cooking an additional 5 minutes, or until the rice is cooked "al dente," still firm to the tooth. Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs (30 ml) butter and the Parmesan cheese, and serve immediately.

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This dish truly is one of my favorites. I frequently serve it as a main course. Once you cook it the first time and see for yourself how easy (and delicious) it is, you will almost certainly add it to your repertoire of "I don't really feel like cooking tonight" recipes.

Mushroom Risotto (Risotto ai Funghi)

1 ounce (30 g) dried mushrooms, any variety or combination
of varieties
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped shallots or onion
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
2 cups (500 ml) raw Italian Arborio rice*
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

*Arborio rice really is the secret to this dish, and is available in finer supermarkets and specialty shops. Long-grained rice may be used, but the results will be inferior.

Soak mushrooms in 2 cups warm water for at least 30 minutes, until the mushrooms are soft. Remove from the water and chop coarsely. Strain the water through a coffee filter and combine it with the 2 cups of chicken stock in a saucepan. Bring this mixture to a simmer over medium heat. In a heavy 2-qt (2 L) pot over medium heat saute the shallots in 2 Tbs of butter and 3 Tbs olive oil until translucent but not brown. Add the rice, stir to thoroughly coat with the oil and butter, and saute for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine or 1/2 cup of the simmering stock, stirring frequently. When the liquid is almost completely absorbed add another 1/2 cup stock, and repeat this process for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the mushrooms and continue adding stock as it becomes absorbed for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the rice is done. You may have some stock left over; do not feel compelled to use it all, as this will make the risotto too runny. Test the rice for doneness by tasting it; it should be "al dente" (soft but still firm to the tooth) and the risotto should be creamy at this stage. When the rice is cooked remove the pot from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese and the remaining 2 Tbs of butter. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish is very similar to the original fettuccine Alfredo, except that Alfredo didn't use cream in his dish. Think of it as the Italian version of macaroni and cheese-it's about the easiest and possibly the best way there is to dress pasta.

Pasta with Butter and Cheese (Pasta al Burro e Formaggio)

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter cut into small pieces
1 lb (450 g) dried pasta such as spaghetti, rigatoni, or conchiglie, cooked according to package directions and drained
1 cup (250 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream

Place the butter in a large bowl. Add the pasta and half the cheese, tossing to combine. Add the remaining cheese and cream and toss again. Serves 4 to 6.

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I have to confess that I am a confirmed carnivore and usually feel cheated after a meatless meal. Not so with pasta. In fact, in restaurants I have been know to choose meatless pasta dishes over meat dishes many times. Here's a dish to try on the "meat and potatoes" person in your life.

Pasta with Peppers (Pasta Peperonata)

4 Tbs (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 red bell peppers (capsicums), seeded and sliced
2 green bell peppers (capsicums), seeded and sliced
2 yellow bell peppers (capsicums0, seeded and sliced
3 medium onions, sliced
1 large red onion, sliced
8-10 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine or water
1 tsp (5 ml) sugar
15-20 oil-cured black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped (optional)
4 Tbs (60 ml) capers (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
12-16 oz (350-450 g) pasta of your choice, cooked according to package directions
Parmesan cheese

Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat. Saute the peppers, onions, and garlic, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the wine or water and simmer covered for 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar and cook uncovered for 20 minutes, until the mixture is very soft and lightly browned. Add the optional olives and capers and season with salt and pepper. Toss with the cooked pasta and serve immediately with Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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"Alla carbonara" means in the style of the charcoal maker's wife, and refers to the garnish of black pepper which, supposedly, resembles bits of charcoal that have fallen onto the dish. Use the unsmoked Italian bacon called pancetta if at all possible, or a lightly smoked American bacon as an alternative.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

4 oz (100 g) pancetta, or 6 slices bacon, cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) dice
4 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Pecorino Romano or
Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) dried spaghetti or pasta of choice

Saute the pancetta or bacon until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Combine the eggs, half the cheese, cream, salt, and pepper in a large serving bowl and beat to combine thoroughly. Cook the pasta according to the package directions until al dente (firm to the bite). Drain and immediately add to the serving bowl, tossing to coat the pasta with the sauce. The hot pasta will cook the eggs and make the sauce thicken. If necessary, return the pasta with the sauce to the cooking pot and shake over very low heat until the sauce thickens. Top with the cooked pancetta, the remaining cheese, and a generous grinding of pepper. Serves 4 to 6.

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Several dishes from the Naples area are named for the local volcano, hence the "alla Vesuviana" appellation of this classic dish.

Spaghetti with Olives and Capers (Spaghetti alla Vesuviana)

3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
A pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups (500 ml) canned tomatoes with their liquid, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8-12 green olives, pitted and chopped
8-12 Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
1 tsp (5 ml) chopped fresh oregano leaves or 1/2 tsp
(2 ml) dried
1 lb (450 g) spaghetti or other thin noodle, cooked according to package directions

Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic and red pepper flakes for about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper and cook uncovered until most of the liquid has evaporated, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the olives, capers, and oregano and cook for 5 minutes. Add the cooked pasta to the skillet and toss to combine. Serves 4 to 6.

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Side Dishes (Contorni)


Most of my American readers know this dish and may not realize that its use of mozzarella and tomato sauce marks it as a dish typical of the area surrounding Naples.

Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane)

2 medium-sized eggplants, washed and cut into 1/2 inch (1 cm) slices
1/2 cup (125 ml) bread crumbs
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
1/2 cup (125 ml) all-purpose flour
2 eggs, well beaten
6 Tbs (90 ml) olive oil
3 cups (750 ml) marinara sauce (see below)
8 oz (250 g) mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Sprinkle the eggplant slices lightly with salt and place on paper towels for 30 minutes to drain. Mix bread crumbs and oregano on a plate. Dry the eggplant slices, dust with flour, dip in beaten eggs, and cover with bread crumb mixture. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and saute the eggplant slices until medium brown, about 5 minutes per side. Place a thin coating of marinara sauce in the bottom of a baking pan large enough to hold the eggplant in a single layer. Arrange the eggplant slices on the sauce. Place a slice of mozzarella on top of each eggplant slice and sprinkle with the Parmesan. Cover with the remaining marinara sauce. Bake in a 325F (165C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.

Marinara Sauce

4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
16 sprigs of fresh parsley (leaves only), chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 cups (1 L) plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) dried oregano
6 anchovy fillets (optional)
2 Tbs (30 ml) tomato paste

Heat the olive oil in a sauce pan over moderate heat. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Do not brown. Add the tomatoes, oregano, salt, and pepper, and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the optional anchovies and tomato paste and stir well. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Makes approximately 3 cups.

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In Italy this dish would be made with fresh artichokes, but my readers everywhere else will probably find that canned or frozen artichoke hearts are a much more economical, time-saving, and labor-saving alternative.

Fried Artichoke Hearts (Carciofi Friti)

1 cup (250 ml) bread crumbs
1/2 cup (125 ml) grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8-12 artichoke hearts, thawed if using frozen, quartered
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Extra-virgin olive oil for frying
Lemon wedges for garnish

Combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, salt, and pepper in a shallow bowl. Dip the artichoke hearts in the eggs, then roll in the bread crumb mixture. Heat about 1 inch (3 cm) of the oil in a skillet over high until some bread crumbs sizzle immediately when dropped in. Fry the artichokes in batches until golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve with lemon wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here is a version on mashed potatoes with an Italian twist.

Mashed Potatoes with Parmesan Cheese (Puré di Patate al Parmigiano)

1 lb (500 g) boiling potatoes
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
1/2 cup (125 ml) milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and white pepper to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg

Boil the unpeeled potatoes in enough salted water to cover. When the potatoes are easily penetrated with a fork, drain and cool just enough to handle. Peel the potatoes and press through a potato ricer or food mill. Combine the riced potatoes, butter, and milk in a pan and beat with a whisk or fork over low heat until the potatoes, butter, and milk are thoroughly combined. Add the Parmesan, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and continue to beat over low heat until the cheese is melted and thoroughly incorporated. Serve immediately, or hold at room temperature for up to 2 hours and reheat over low heat or in a microwave oven. Serves 4.

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These peppers combine their natural sweetness with the acidity of the vinegar to make an unusually good combination of flavors. Serve them as part of an antipasto platter, top a bruschetta with them, or serve them as a side dish with just about anything.

Peppers in Vinegar (Peperoni in Aceto)

6 red bell peppers (capsicums), quartered, seeded, and cored
1/2 cup (125 ml) red wine or balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a skillet over low heat and cook covered until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool and serve at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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Although written accounts of broccoli in America date back to 1755, this Italian import was virtually unknown on these shores until the 1920s. Today it is one of the favorite vegetables of Americans, the prejudices of a certain former president notwithstanding.

Sauteed Broccoli (Broccoli Saltati)

1 large bunch broccoli, about 1 lb (900 g)
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1-3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) balsamic or red wine vinegar
2-3 anchovy fillets, mashed (optional)

Cut the broccoli into florets and peel and slice the stem. Heat the oil in a large deep skillet over moderate heat and add the broccoli, garlic, salt, and pepper. Saute 6 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until the broccoli is tender but crisp. Add the vinegar and optional anchovies and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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These onions can also be served as an antipasto or as part of an elegant buffet.

Stuffed Onions (Cipolle Ripiene)

2-3 large onions, ends trimmed, peeled, and halved horizontally
Salt to taste
2 slices white bread, crusts removed
2 Tbs (30 ml) milk
1 Tbs (15 ml) capers, finely chopped
2-3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 egg, beaten
2-3 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Place the onions cut side up on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt. Bake in a 375F (190C) oven until the onions are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. While the onions are cooling, soak the bread in the milk in a small bowl. Mash the bread with a fork to make a smooth paste and stir in the egg, capers, and anchovies. When the onions are cool enough to handle, scoop out the centers of the onions leaving hollow shells of 2 or 3 layers. Chop the scooped out onion finely and stir into the bread mixture. Spoon the mixture into the hollowed onions and drizzle with olive oil. Return to the oven and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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Main Dishes (Secondi Piati)


Lamb shanks are a favorite item in my family, but our local supermarket never carries them so I tend to stock up on them whenever I find them in more distant locations. As a result I usually have some in the freezer, and this is one of our favorite ways to cook them.

Braised Lamb Shanks (Stinchi di Agnello)

2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4-6 lamb shanks, trimmed of excess fat
2 carrots, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
1 onion, chopped
3-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 sprig fresh rosemary, or 1 tsp (5 ml) dried
1 15-ounce (425 g) can tomatoes with their liquid
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy pot large enough to hold the lamb shanks over moderate heat and brown the lamb shanks on all sides. Transfer the shanks to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, celery, onion, and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and return the lamb shanks to the pot. Reduce the heat to low and simmer tightly covered until the lamb is tender and falling off the bone, 2 to 3 hours, adding water or additional wine if necessary. Serves 4 to 6.

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I actually first sampled this dish in Venice, where it was on the menu of a small inexpensive restaurant I stumbled upon. When I got home to the USA I sought out a cookbook containing the recipe, and it described the dish as one that even people who don't like liver will enjoy. I can't vouch for that since I like liver, but you might try it on any "liver-haters" in your house.

Calf's Liver Venetian Style (Fegato alla Veneziana)

2 lbs (1 Kg) calf's liver, very thinly sliced
4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
2 large onions, very thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Trim the liver of any membranes and veins. Cut into match stick size pieces about 1/4 inch (5 mm) wide and 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the onions for 20 to 25 minutes, until limp and slightly browned. Remove the onions to a plate, leaving as much oil in the skillet as possible. Turn the heat to high and saute the liver for 3 to 4 minutes, just until it loses its pink color. Add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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If there is a parcel of land that has contributed more to the gastronomic lexicon than the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, I would like to know about it. The capital city of Bologna is the home of many unique and delicious sausages, including mortadella which is the ancestor of our American "baloney." The region also contains the city of Parma whose "parmesano" is perhaps the best known of all the world's cheeses, and the surrounding area produces prosciutto ham. As if that weren't enough, the city of Modena contributed balsamic vinegar to the food lovers of the world. This classic dish makes good use of the cheese and ham that Emilia-Romagna is justifiably famous for.

Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto and Cheese (Petti di Pollo alla Bolognese)

4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, about 1/2 lb (250 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Flour for dredging
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
8 thin slices prosciutto ham, about 2x4 inches (5x10 cm)
8 thin slices Fontina or Bel Paese cheese, about 2x4 inches (5x10 cm)
4 tsp (20 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Using a very sharp knife, carefully slice each chicken breast in half horizontally, to make 8 pieces. Place between layers of wax paper or plastic wrap and pound with the flat side of a cleaver or the bottom of a heavy saucepan to flatten slightly. Season with salt and pepper and dust lightly with flour, shaking off the excess. Heat the butter and olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat, and brown the chicken to a light golden color, 3 or 4 slices at a time. Do not overcook. Transfer the chicken to a baking dish large enough to hold them comfortably. Place a slice of prosciutto and then a slice of cheese on top of each. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and bake uncovered in a preheated 350F (180C) for about 10 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and slightly brown. Serves 4.

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If you don't have fresh sage for this dish, it would be better to use another herb such as fresh rosemary or tarragon instead of dried sage.

Chicken Breasts with Sage (Petti di Pollo alla Salvia)

4-6 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) plus 2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
15-20 whole fresh sage leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter

Combine the chicken breasts, lemon juice, 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the olive oil, the sage leaves, salt, and pepper in a non-reactive bowl, tossing to combine. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Remove the chicken from the marinade and pat dry. Remove the sage leaves from the marinade and reserve both. Heat the remaining olive oil and butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat and cook the chicken breasts until golden brown on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn the chicken breasts, add the sage leaves, and cook until the chicken is browned on both sides and cooked through, 5 to 10 minutes more. Transfer the chicken and sage leaves to a warm platter. Discard the oil in the skillet and add the reserved marinade, scraping the pan to dissolve the brown bits. Cook, stirring constantly, until reduced to a brown glaze, 1 to 2 minutes, and pour over the chicken. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Salmoriglio, a simple sauce from Sicily, is used to add flavor to seafood and poultry dishes all over Italy.

Grilled Fish with Oregano Sauce (Pesce al Salmoriglio)

4-6 fillets of firm white fish such as swordfish, halibut, or cod
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the salmoriglio sauce:
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) finely chopped fresh oregano leaves
or 1 tsp (5 ml) dried
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped (optional)

Season the fish generously with salt and pepper and grill over hot coals or under a preheated broiler until firm and opaque. Combine the ingredients for the sauce in a bowl and whisk vigorously to make an emulsion. Spoon over the cooked fish and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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People who know me know that I love lamb and that I am inordinately fond of olives. It will come as no surprise to them that this is one of my favorite dishes.

Lamb Stew with Olives (Spezzatino di Agnello alle Olive)

2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 lbs (900 g) boneless shoulder of lamb, cut into
1-inch (3 cm) cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 Tbs (15 ml) dried
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
1 can (15 oz, 425 g) whole tomatoes, chopped, with their liquid
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh parsley
12-18 kalamata olives, pitted if desired

Heat the oil in the bottom of a large, heavy pot over high heat. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and, working in batches, brown the lamb on all sides in the oil, transferring it to a plate when it is browned. Lower the heat to medium and saute the garlic and rosemary in the same pot for about 1 minute. Add the wine and stir to dissolve the brown bits in the bottom of the pot. Add the tomatoes and meat to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add the parsley and olives and cook for 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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The bollito misto is a classic Italian meal, and many restaurants have earned their reputations on this dish alone. In its most elevated form a bollito misto may include a dozen types of meats, including beef, pork, chicken, turkey, tongue, and various forms of sausages. Such elaborate versions are best left to restaurants, but a simpler version is popular with home cooks, especially because the leftover meats can provide several meals later in the week. This one-pot version also provides an excellent Italian-style meat broth which I suggest you freeze and use for soups.

Mixed Boiled Meats (Bollito Misto)

2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) chicken parts
1-2 lbs (450-900 g) veal or pork neck bones or ribs
1 lb (450 g) beef chuck roast
1 lb (450 ml) veal breast or shoulder
6-8 mild Italian sausages (optional)
6-8 beef marrow bones (optional)
2-3 carrots, coarsely chopped
2-3 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1-2 ripe tomatoes, quartered
1-2 onions, peeled and quartered
1 small bunch fresh parsley
1-2 Tbs (15-30 ml) whole black peppercorns
Salt to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil far garnish

Combine all the ingredients except the olive oil in a large pot and add enough water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 3 to 4 hours, skimming off the scum as it rises to the surface. To serve, lift the meats out of the broth, carve the chicken and slice the meats. Serve with a little of the broth spooned over the meat to keep it moist, and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil. Strain the remaining broth and save for other uses. Serves 6 to 8.

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Stuffed beef rolls are popular all over Italy, and it is one of those dishes for which there are as many variations as there are cooks. This is one way they're done in the vicinity of Naples.

Neapolitan Beef Rolls (Braciole Napolitane)

1 1/2 (675 g) thinly sliced beef bottom round
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 oz (170 g) fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
12-18 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry bread crumbs
2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Pound the beef slices between sheets of plastic wrap until they are no more than 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick, trimming them with a knife if necessary to form pieces about 4x6 inches (10x15 cm). Season with salt and pepper and place a slice of mozzarella on each slice. Sprinkle with the olives, grated cheese, capers, and bread crumbs, and drizzle with olive oil. Roll up the beef loosely and secure each roll with a toothpick. Grill over hot coals, cook under a preheated broiler, or saute in a skillet over high heat until browned on both sides and cooked through. Serves 4 to 6.

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Although I treat it as a main dish here, this classic peel-it-yourself shrimp dish from Venice also makes a wonderful appetizer. However you serve it, be sure to include plenty of crusty bread for sopping up the sauce.

Shrimp Venetian-Style (Scampi alla Veneziana)

1/2 cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 lbs (675 g) large shrimp in their shells
4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) fresh thyme leaves
1/2 tsp (2 ml) hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat and saute the shrimp, garlic, thyme, and red pepper flakes until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 4 minutes-do not overcook. Season with salt and pepper and serve garnished with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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Many Italian-Americans are surprised at the quantity and variety of seafood they find when they go to Italy because it is much more abundant and affordable than it is here.

Tuna with Tomatoes and Bay Leaves (Tonno al Pomodoro e Alloro)

3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4-6 tuna steaks, about 6 oz (170 g) each, and about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2-3 large tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 bay (laurel) leaves
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
Chopped parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Season the tuna steaks on both sides with salt and pepper and cook just long enough to lightly brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the tuna to a plate and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion to the skillet. Saute until tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, wine, and vinegar and cook uncovered until the tomatoes have formed a thick sauce, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the tuna to the pan and cook covered until the tuna is done to the degree of doneness you prefer, 2 to 3 minutes for medium rare, or 8 to 10 minutes for well done. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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Desserts (Dolci)


This easy cake makes a simple but tasty dessert, and can also be served for breakfast or as an afternoon snack.

Almond Cake (Torta di Mandorle)

8 oz (225 g) unblanched almonds
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) all-purpose flour
2 tsp (10 ml) baking powder
A pinch of salt
12 Tbs (1 1/2 sticks, 165 g) butter at room temperature
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
4 eggs, separated

Combine the almonds, flour, baking powder, and salt in an electric food processor and process until the almonds are finely chopped. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl. Beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and beat until thoroughly combined. Add the butter mixture to the almond mixture and mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks and fold into the batter with a rubber spatula. Pout the batter into a greased and floured 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool on a wire before removing from the pan. Serves 8 to 12.

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This frozen delight from Italy will become a family favorite, and it's easy enough that you can make it a "special treat" as often as you like.

Cassata

This recipe calls for uncooked egg whites. If salmonella contamination is a concern to you, please be sure to use pasteurized eggs.
1 1/2 qts (1.5 L) vanilla ice cream, softened
1 qt (1 L) raspberry sherbet, softened
3/4 qt (750 ml) pistachio ice cream, softened
1/2 cup (125 ml) diced candied fruit
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum (optional)
3 egg whites
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1/2 cup (125 ml) whipping cream

For the garnish:
1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream
Candied fruit

Line a 4-quart (4 L) mold or bowl with the vanilla ice cream and freeze until firm. Cover the vanilla ice cream evenly with the raspberry sherbet and freeze until solid. Repeat the process with the pistachio ice cream. Beat the egg whites until foamy, and slowly beat in the sugar. Whip the cream until stiff. Fold the cream, candied fruit, and optional rum into the egg whites, folding gently until thoroughly combined. Spoon the egg white mixture into the center of the molded ice cream, spreading it evenly to form a smooth bottom layer. Cover and freeze until firm. The dish may be kept frozen for up to two weeks at this stage. To unmold, dip the outside of the mold or bowl in hot water for 5 or 6 seconds and invert onto a cold platter. Whip the remaining cup of whipping cream until stiff and decorate the molded ice cream with a pastry bag fitted with a decorative tip. Garnish with the candied fruit. Alternately, decorate the ice cream with the candied fruit, and serve the whipped cream in a separate bowl for the diners to serve themselves. Serves 12 to 16.

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This is a recipe I discovered years ago in "The Classic Italian Cookbook" by Marcella Hazan. Sadly, the book is out of print, but this recipe lives on. Since my family seems to always have the required ingredients on hand, it has come to the rescue many times when a quick, elegant, and delicious dessert was called for. You really have to taste it to appreciate how the flavors in this recipe combine to form an unexpected and unique taste treat.

Chimney Sweep Ice Cream (Gelato Spazzacamino)

1 large scoop vanilla ice cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) Scotch whisky
1/2 tsp (2 ml) extremely finely ground espresso coffee beans*

* I have substituted finely ground regular coffee beans, and even instant coffee in a pinch.
Place the ice cream in a serving bowl, pour the Scotch whisky over it, and sprinkle with the coffee. Serves 1.

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Flourless chocolate cakes are popular everywhere these days, and Italy is no exception. Here's how they serve it in Milano:

Chocolate Cake (Torta di Cioccolato)

1 lb (450 g) good quality semisweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 lb (225 g) unsalted butter
5 eggs
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1 Tbs (15 ml) Amaretto liqueur, creme de menthe, rum, or spirit of your choice (optional)
Whipped cream for garnish (optional)
Fresh berries for garnish (optional)

Combine the chocolate and butter in a bowl and melt in the microwave or place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, mixing well with a rubber spatula. Combine the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl and beat until smooth and pale yellow. Stir in the chocolate mixture and optional Amaretto. Pour into a greased 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 10 minutes. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake an additional 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature and then refrigerate overnight. To serve, run a knife around the side of the pan before removing the outer ring of the springform pan. Serve chilled, topped with whipped cream and/or fresh berries if desired. Serves 8 to 12.

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For an authentic taste of Italy, serve these individual puddings with amaretti or biscotti.

Chocolate Flan (Budini di Cioccolato)

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
2/3 cup (160 ml) milk
8 oz (225 g) good quality bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) espresso or very strong coffee
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla extract
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

Bring the cream and milk to a simmer over moderate heat. Remove from the heat and a\dd the chocolate, stirring until completely melted. Whisk in the remaining ingredients. Pour unto 6 lightly buttered custard cups or ramekins and place them in a roasting pan. Add enough boiling water to the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the custard cups. Bake in a preheated 325F (165C) oven until the custards are set around the edges and still trembling in the centers, 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven, remove the custard cups from the water bath, and serve warm, chilled, or at room temperature. Serves 6.

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The combination of espresso, rum, chocolate, and whipped cream will be familiar to lovers of tiramisu.

Diplomat Cake (Il Diplomatico)

Note: This recipe contains uncooked eggs. If salmonella contamination is a concern to you, please be sure to use pasteurized eggs.
1/2 cup (125 ml) espresso or very strong coffee
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum
4 Tbs (60 ml) sugar
1 pound cake, about 12 oz (340 g), store-bought or from your favorite recipe
6 eggs, separated
8 oz (225 g) semi-sweet chocolate, melted
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
About 1 cup (250 ml) berries such as raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, or combination of these (optional)

Combine the espresso, water, rum, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the sugar in a small bowl and set aside. Line a loaf pan with wax paper. Cut the pound cake into 1/4-inch (5 mm) slices and line the bottom and the sides of the loaf pan. Dab the cake with the coffee mixture using a pastry brush. The cake should be soaked but not mushy. Beat the egg yolks and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the sugar until smooth and pale yellow. Fold in the melted chocolate until thoroughly combined. Whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold into the chocolate mixture. Pour the mixture into the loaf pan and cover with a layer of the pound cake. Dab with the remaining coffee mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, whip the cream with the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) sugar. Unmold the cake onto a serving plate and discard the wax paper. Garnish with the whipped cream and fresh berries if desired. Serves 6 to 8.

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Granite (singular: granita) are found all over Italy. They are so typically Italian (in the USA they are usually called "Italian ices"), and so good, not to mention fat-free, that I just had to publish them.

Italian Ices (Granite)

For lemon flavored:
2 cups (500 ml) water
1 cup (250 ml) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) lemon juice

For orange flavored:
2 cups (500 ml) water
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) orange juice

For coffee flavored:
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 cups (500 ml) extra strong espresso coffee

For cappuccino flavored:
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) extra strong espresso coffee
1/2 cup (125 ml) non-fat milk

For strawberry flavored:
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 cups fresh strawberries, pureed in an
electric blender or food processor
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
(If using frozen strawberries, reduce the amount of sugar
to 1/4 cup, 60 ml)

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring just until the sugar is dissolved. Boil uncovered for exactly 5 minutes, remove from the heat immediately, and allow to cool to room temperature. Add the remaining ingredients, stir, and pour into a metal pan, such as a cake pan. Freeze for 3 to 4 hours, stirring every 30 minutes with a fork and scraping the ice crystals that form around the edge of the pan. When finished, the granita should have a fine, crumbly texture, like coarse snow. For a coarser texture that is preferred by some, freeze the liquid in ice cube trays, and then crush the cubes in an ice crusher or food processor immediately prior to serving. Each recipe makes about 3 cups (750 ml).

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Italians rarely serve more that cheese and fruit for dessert, and elaborate, baked concoctions are typically reserved for special occasions. This classic cake from Bologna is an Easter treat, and it has become a favorite in my family where we enjoy it at any time of year.

Rice Cake (Torta di Riso)

4 cups (1 L) milk
1/4 tsp (1 ml) salt
2-3 strips of lemon peel, yellow part only
1 cup (250 ml) sugar
1/3 cup (80 ml) uncooked rice, preferably arborio or other short-grained variety
4 eggs
1/2 cup (125 ml) blanched almonds, toasted and chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) candied citron or mixed candied fruits, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum (optional)
Butter and unflavored bread crumbs

Bring the milk, salt, and lemon peel to a boil in a saucepan over moderate heat. Add the rice and stir. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and simmer uncovered for 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is dense and pale brown. Remove and discard the lemon peel and set aside to cool. Beat the eggs gently in a mixing bowl and add the rice mixture a little at a time, stirring to incorporate. Add the almonds, citron, and the optional rum, mixing to combine thoroughly. Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 6x9 inch (15x23 cm) cake pan and coat with bread crumbs. Pour the batter into the pan and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 1 hour. Allow the cake to cool before inverting onto a serving plate. Allow to rest at room temperature at least 24 hours before serving. Will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Serves 6 to 8.

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Ricotta is a very popular flavor of ice cream in Italy. Do you think the rum might have something to do with that?

Ricotta Ice Cream (Gelato di Ricotta)

1 vanilla bean
2 cups (500 ml) milk
6 egg yolks
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
2 cups (500 ml) ricotta cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) dark rum (optional)

Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the black paste (the seeds) from the inside with the tip of a knife. Combine the vanilla seeds, the split pod, and the milk in a pot and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Remove from the heat, let steep for 15 minutes, and remove the vanilla pod. (Place it in a jar with sugar to make vanilla sugar.) Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until fluffy and pale yellow in color. Set aside. Return the milk to the heat and bring to a simmer again. Remove from the heat and stir about 1/3 of the milk into the egg mixture. Add the resulting egg yolk mixture to the pan with the remainder of the milk and stir to combine. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens slightly or it reaches 185F (85C) on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Cool in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally, until cold to the touch, about 30 minutes. Combine the ricotta, cream, and optional rum in a bowl and whisk until smooth and thoroughly combined. Fold the ricotta mixture into the egg mixture. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's directions. Makes about 1 quart (1 L).

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"Tiramisu" means "pick me up" or "carry me up" in Italian, and perhaps heaven is the implied destination. This dessert has become very trendy in the United States in the past few years, but it is a true Italian classic in spite of its popularity in fern bars and nationwide chains. If you are lucky enough to have access to imported Italian savoiardi, then please use them. Otherwise, any store-bought ladyfingers will do just fine.

Tiramisu

Note: This recipe contains uncooked eggs. If salmonella contamination is a concern to you, please be sure to use pasteurized eggs.

3 eggs, separated
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
8 oz (225 g) mascarpone
About 24 imported Italian savoiardi or ladyfingers
1/4 cup (60 ml) very strong espresso coffee
1 Tbs (15 ml) brandy or sherry
1 oz (28 g) bittersweet chocolate, grated with a vegetable peeler

Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. In a separate bowl, beat together the egg yolks and sugar until creamy and light yellow in color. Blend in the mascarpone, and then fold in the egg whites. Place a single layer of about 12 ladyfingers in the bottom of a 10-inch (25 cm) square pan. Combine the coffee and brandy in a small bowl and, using a pastry brush, soak the ladyfingers with half the mixture. Spread half the mascarpone mixture over the ladyfingers, and sprinkle with half the grated chocolate. Repeat with another layer of ladyfingers brushed with the remaining liquid and topped with the remaining mascarpone mixture. Reserve the remaining grated chocolate for a last-minute garnish. Refrigerate covered for at least 3 hours or overnight. Serve chilled or at room temperature, garnished with grated chocolate. Serves 6 to 8.

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The name of this dish translates as "English soup," possible because of its resemblance to trifle, the prototypical English dessert, and because it's eaten with a spoon. You can make the pound cake from your favorite recipe if you like, but I'm sure you'll find that a store-bought pound cake will work almost as well.

Zuppa Inglese

6 egg yolks
1 cup (250 ml) powdered (confectioner's) sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) all-purpose flour
3 cups (750 ml) milk, preferably whole
The grated zest of 1 lemon
1 pound cake, about 12 oz (340 g), cut lengthwise
into 1/4-inch (5 mm) slices
1/4 cup (60 ml) grenadine syrup
2 Tbs (30 ml) cognac
2Tbs (30 ml) Grand Marnier
2 Tbs (30 ml) rum
2 oz (56 g) semisweet chocolate, melted in
the microwave or double boiler
1/4 cup (60 ml) slivered almonds

Beat the egg yolks and sugar with an electric mixer until fluffy and pale yellow. Add the flour and mix on low speed. Meanwhile, bring the milk to a simmer in a pot over moderate heat-do not boil. With the mixer going, slowly pour the scalded milk into the egg mixture. Transfer the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest. Place about 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the custard in a 2- to 3-quart (2-3 L) serving dish at least 2 inches (5 cm) deep. Place about one third of the pound cake over the custard. Combine the grenadine, cognac, Grand Marnier, and rum in a small bowl and drizzle, spoon, or brush about one third of the mixture over the pound cake. Spread one third of the remaining custard over the pound cake, add another layer of pound cake, and drizzle with half the remaining grenadine mixture. Divide the remaining custard mixture in half and stir the melted chocolate into one half. Spread the chocolate custard over the pound cake, add the final layer of pound cake, drizzle with the remaining grenadine mixture, and top with the remaining custard. Sprinkle the slivered almonds over the top, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. Serve chilled. Serves 6 to 8.

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