Cooking with Spices I

For detailed information on cooking with spices, see All About Spices

Index of Recipes

Spice Mixtures

Bengali Panch Phoron
Bolivian Aji Paste
Bombay Masala
Cajun Spice Mixture
Chinese Five-Spice Powder
English Mixed Spice
English Pickling Spice Mixture
Ethiopian Berbere
French Quatre Épices
Indian Chat Masala
Indian Dhana Jeera
Indian Garam Masala and Variations
Indian Sambhar
Iranian Spice Mixture for Rice
Iranian Spice Mixture for Stews
Italian Spice Mixture
Japanese Goma Shio
Japanese Seven-Spice Powder
Kitchen Pepper
Madras Curry Powder
Malaysian Curry Paste
Malaysian Curry Powder
Mauritian Massale
Middle Eastern Pickling Spice Blend
Omani Bizar A'Shuwa
Saudi Baharat
Sri Lankan Curry Powder
Tamil Curry Powder
Tandoori Masala
Thai Green Curry Paste
Thai Massaman Curry Paste
Thai Red Curry Paste

Starters

Anise Boiled Peanuts
Bacon Horseradish Dip
Cajun Popcorn
Chinese Five-Spice Eggs
Chinese Salt and Pepper Shrimp
Chopped Curried Chicken Livers
Curried Pumpkin Seeds
Fruit and Curry Dip
German Eggs in Mustard Sauce
Greek Garlic Dip
Green Peppercorn and Mustard Dip
Lemon Pepper Mushrooms
Raw Vegetables with Four Spiced Salts
Roasted Garlic
Roasted Garlic Bruschetta
Roasted Garlic Dip
Russian Beef Tongue with Horseradish Sauce
Shrimp with Lemon-Horseradish Sauce
Smoked Fish with Horseradish Sauce
Spiced Garbanzo Beans
Spiced Mixed Nuts
Spiced Peanuts
Spicy Marinated Mushrooms
Spicy Roasted Pepper Dip
Spicy Vegetable Pâté
Sweet and Spicy Shrimp
Turkish Walnut-Garlic Dip

Soups

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup
Curried Carrot Soup
Garlic and Egg Soup
Garlic and Lime Soup
Garlic Consommé
Hungarian Turkey and Caraway Soup
Indian Spicy Lentil Broth
Provençal Garlic Soup
Quick Carrot and Caraway Soup
Red Hot Cold Beet Soup
Roasted Garlic Soup
Saffron Broth with Quadrucci
Spanish Garlic Soup
Spiced Melon Soup
Spiced Tomato Soup
Spicy Cheddar Soup
Spicy Oyster Bisque
Vietnamese Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup

More spice recipes >

Spice Mixtures

Although it is not absolutely necessary, you will probably want an electric spice grinder to prepare most of these traditional spice mixtures from around the world. There are devices sold especially for this purpose, but an inexpensive electric coffee grinder works just as well. A mortar and pestle (the traditional tools used in most of these preparations) or an electric food processor may be used if an electric grinder isn't available.

Use this mixture of whole spices to season legumes and vegetable dishes.

Bengali Panch Phoron

1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) fennel seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) mustard seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) nigella seeds*
1 Tbs (15 ml) fenugreek seeds*

* Available in Indian specialty shops.

Combine the spices and store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 year. Use to flavor hot oil before cooking. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Aji denotes chili peppers in much of South America, and this spicy mixture can be added to soups and stews, rubbed onto meat and poultry before cooking, and served as a table condiment.

Bolivian Aji Paste

10-15 dried hot red chili peppers, seeded
4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
5-6 Tbs (75-90 ml) water
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil

Break the dried peppers into small pieces and soak in warm water for 30 minutes. Drain the peppers discarding the liquid. Mash the garlic and salt to a paste and add the hot peppers, water, and oil in a food processor and blend to form a smooth paste. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 month. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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This traditional Indian spice blend is milder than many. Use it to season grilled meats, beans, and legumes.

Bombay Masala

8 green cardamom pods
6 whole cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
2 tsp (10 ml) coriander seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) black peppercorns
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) unsweetened shredded coconut
1 Tbs (15 ml) poppy seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) sesame seeds

Remove the seeds from the cardamom pods and discard the pods. Combine the cardamom seeds, cloves, cinnamon, coriander seeds, peppercorns, and cumin an a dry skillet and roast over moderate heat until the spices are lightly browned. In a separate skillet, roast the coconut, poppy, and cumin seeds until the coconut is dark brown. Cool and combine with the spice mixture. Grind to a fine powder. Will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for 2 to 3 months. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Use this mixture to give a fiery kick to gumbos, jambalayas, soups, and stews. It can also be rubbed on fish, poultry, or meat before blackening in a red-hot skillet.

Cajun Spice Mixture

2-3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 small onion, chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) paprika
1 tsp (5 ml) black peppercorns
1 tsp (5 ml) fennel seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) mustard seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) cayenne pepper
1 tsp (5 ml) dried thyme
1 tsp (5 ml) dried oregano
1 tsp (5 ml) dried sage

Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend to form a smooth paste. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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According to Chinese culinary tradition, all five flavors (salty, bitter, sweet, sour, and pungent) are provided by five-spice powder. It is often extended to six or even seven spices with the addition of ginger, cardamom, or licorice. Use it sparingly in marinades and to season meat or poultry before grilling or roasting.

Chinese Five-Spice Powder

6 whole star anise*
1 Tbs (15 ml) Szechwan pepper or sansho
1 Tbs (15 ml) fennel seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) whole cloves
2 tsp (10 ml) ground cinnamon

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops.

Combine all ingredients in a spice grinder and process to a fine powder. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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Commercial preparations similar to this are used primarily in baked goods. Add a dash to cookies, mincemeat, fruit cakes, baked, and steamed puddings.

English Mixed Spice

1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
1 Tbs (15 ml) allspice berries
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) whole cloves
2 tsp (10 ml) ground mace
2 tsp (10 ml) freshly grated nutmeg
2 tsp (10 ml) ground ginger

Combine all the ingredients and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Use this traditional English mixture to flavor the vinegar for pickling fruits and vegetables.

English Pickling Spice Mixture

3 Tbs (45 ml) allspice berries
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped dried ginger
2 Tbs (30 ml) mustard seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) black peppercorns
2 Tbs (30 ml) coriander seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) whole cloves

Combine the whole spices and add directly to pickling liquid or tie them in a small piece of cheesecloth for easy removal. Makes about 3/4 cup (180 ml).

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Although there are as many variations on this mixture as there are cooks, this is a fairly typical example. It is used to flavor Ethiopian stews called wats, and can be rubbed onto meat and poultry before grilling or frying.

Ethiopian Berbere

15-20 dried hot red chili peppers
12 allspice berries
8 whole cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
1 tsp (5 ml) coriander seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) cardamom seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) black peppercorns
1 tsp (5 ml) fenugreek seeds*
1 tsp (5 ml) ground ginger

* Available in Indian and Middle Eastern specialty shops.

Combine all the ingredients and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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This mixture (French for "four spices") is used primarily in charcuterie. Use it to season fresh pork or ham before cooking.

French Quatre Épices

2 Tbs (30 ml) white peppercorns
2 tsp (10 ml) freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp (5 ml) whole cloves
1 tsp (5 ml) ground ginger

Combine all the ingredients and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 months. Makes about 3 tablespoons (45 ml).

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This blend of spices has a fresh, tart flavor that is great with fruits and vegetables. Use it sparingly.

Indian Chat Masala

1 Tbs (15 ml) amchoor (mango powder)*
1 Tbs (15 ml) coarse salt
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) black peppercorns
1 tsp (5 ml) dried pomegranate seeds (anardana)*
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ajowan seeds*
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried mint leaves
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp (1 ml) asafetida*

* Available in Indian specialty shops.

Combine all ingredients and grind to a fine powder. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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This simple combination is popular in Gujarat where it is used on meats and vegetables, and is often used as the basis for more complex masalas.

Indian Dhana Jeera

4 tsp (20 ml) coriander seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds

Roast the seeds in a dry skillet over moderate heat until they are lightly browned. Cool and grind to a powder. Makes about 11/2 tablespoons (22 ml).

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Masala simply means a blend of spices, and there are at least as many masalas as there are cooks in India. Here is a basic recipe followed by some regional favorites. They can be added to dishes at the beginning of cooking for a more subtle flavor, or added at the end for maximum effect.

Indian Garam Masala and Variations

2 Tbs (30 ml) black cardamom pods
1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
4 Tbs (60 ml) coriander seeds
3 Tbs (45 ml) cumin seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) black peppercorns
1 Tbs (15 ml) whole cloves

Remove the seeds from the cardamom pods and discard the pods. Roast the spices in a dry skillet over moderate heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Cool, then grind to a fine powder. Will keep for several weeks refrigerated in an airtight container. Makes about 3/4 cup (180 ml).

Gujarati Masala

Follow the recipe for garam masala and add:

1 Tbs (15 ml) white sesame seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) fennel seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) ajowan seeds* (optional)
3-4 dried hot red chili peppers

Kashmiri Masala

Follow the recipe for garam masala using green cardamom instead of black and add:

1/2 tsp (2 ml) powdered mace
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground nutmeg

Punjabi Masala

Follow the recipe for garam masala and add:

1 Tbs (15 ml) green cardamom pods
1 Tbs (15 ml) dried rose petals* (optional)
2 tsp (10 ml) fennel seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) ground ginger

* Available in Indian and Middle Eastern specialty shops.

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This spice blend is popular in southern India where many people are vegetarian, so use this on vegetables, beans, and legumes.

Indian Sambhar

10 dried hot chili peppers
4 Tbs (60 ml) coriander seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) black peppercorns
2 tsp (10 ml) fenugreek seeds*
2 tsp (10 ml) mustard seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground turmeric
1/4 tsp (1 ml) asafetida*
1 Tbs (15 ml) sunflower or vegetable oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) yellow split peas (channa dal)*
1 Tbs (15 ml) black split lentils (urad dal)*

* Available in Indian specialty shops.

Roast the whole spices in a dry skillet over moderate heat until they are lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the turmeric and asafetida and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. In a separate skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat and sauté the dals until they are lightly browned. Combine with the spice mixture and grind to a fine powder. Makes about 3/4 cup (180 ml).

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Toss a teaspoon or two of this mixture with cooked rice immediately before serving for an authentic Iranian flavor.

Iranian Spice Mixture for Rice

2 Tbs (30 ml) ground cinnamon
2 Tbs (30 ml) ground dried rose petals*
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground cumin

* Available in Indian and Middle Eastern specialty shops.

Combine all ingredients and store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Use this mixture to season soups, stews, and braised vegetables.

Iranian Spice Mixture for Stews

2 cinnamon sticks, broken into small pieces
2 Tbs (30 ml) coriander seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) green cardamom pods
1 Tbs (15 ml) black peppercorns
1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) grated nutmeg
1 Tbs (15 ml) powdered dried lime*

* Available in Middle Eastern specialty shops.

Combine all the spices and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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Use this classic Italian combination to season chicken, pork, or lamb before roasting or grilling.

Italian Spice Mixture

3-4 whole cloves
2 Tbs (30 ml) black peppercorns
1 Tbs (15 ml) juniper berries
1 Tbs (15 ml) freshly grated nutmeg

Combine all the spices and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 months. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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This simple condiment is used to flavor rice, vegetables, and salads.

Japanese Goma Shio

2 Tbs (30 ml) black or white sesame seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) coarse salt

Sauté the sesame seeds briefly in a dry skillet over moderate heat, just until they become aromatic. Cool, then grind with the salt to form a coarse mixture. Makes about 3 tablespoons (45 ml).

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This traditional spice mixture is called shichimi togarashi or just shichimi. The exact ingredients and proportions vary by region and by cook, and it is called shichimi regardless of the number of spices involved. Use it to flavor noodles, soups, stews, and grilled chicken. Hemp seeds are usually included in Japan, but since these are virtually unobtainable elsewhere, poppy seeds have been substituted.

Japanese Seven-Spice Powder

1 Tbs (15 ml) sansho*
2 tsp (10 ml) white sesame seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) nori (laver) flakes*
2 tsp (10 ml) dried hot chili flakes
1 tsp (5 ml) crushed dried tangerine peel*
1 tsp (5 ml) black sesame seeds*
1 tsp (5 ml) poppy seeds

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops.

Combine all ingredients in a spice grinder and process to a fine powder. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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Kitchen pepper was a staple in many kitchens in Europe and North America for generations, and many commercial preparations were available to the home cook. Use it instead of plain ground pepper for everything you cook to give your dishes an old-fashioned appeal.

Kitchen Pepper

3 nutmegs, crushed with a rolling pin
2 Tbs (30 ml) black peppercorns
2 Tbs (30 ml) anise seed
2 Tbs (30 ml) coriander seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground ginger
1 tsp (5 ml) whole cloves

Combine all the ingredients and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 months. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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Curry powder is really a British invention, based on the traditional spice blends used in and around Madras during the British rule of India. Use this mixture to season anything.

Madras Curry Powder

2 dried hot chili peppers
4 Tbs (60 ml) coriander seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) cumin seeds
2 Tbs (30 ml) black peppercorns
2 tsp (10 ml) mustard seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) ground ginger
1 tsp (5 ml) ground turmeric

Combine the whole spices in a dry skillet and roast over moderate heat until lightly browned. Cool and grind with the remaining spices. Will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for 2 to 3 months. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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The curries of Malaysia show their Indian influence.

Malaysian Curry Paste

6 cloves garlic, chopped
6 hot red chili peppers, seeded and chopped
2 stalks lemon grass, lower third only
2 shallots, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped galangal or ginger
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground turmeric
1 Tbs (15 ml) sunflower or vegetable oil
1 tsp (5 ml) ground mace
1 tsp (5 ml) black peppercorns
1 tsp (5 ml) salt

Puree all ingredients in a food processor, adding more oil or water if necessary to form a thick paste. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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As in its neighbor Thailand, most Malaysian curries are cooked in coconut milk with lemon grass, garlic, and ginger.

Malaysian Curry Powder

6 whole cloves
5 dried hot red chili peppers
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) ground turmeric
1 tsp (5 ml) green cardamom seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) ground galangal or ginger

Combine all ingredients and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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This spice mixture is used to season soups and curries on the French islands Mauritius and Reunion in the Indian Ocean.

Mauritian Massale

2 Tbs (30 ml) coriander seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) cumin seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) black peppercorns
1 tsp (5 ml) cardamom pods
1 tsp (5 ml) whole cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
1 tsp (5 ml) cayenne pepper
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly grated nutmeg

Roast the whole spices in a dry skillet over moderate heat until lightly browned. Cool and mix with the cayenne and nutmeg. Grind to a fine powder and store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Use this blend of spices to pickle cooked green beans, carrots, cauliflower, green tomatoes, or fruits such as pears and apricots. Just mix a little with boiling vinegar and pour over the cooked fruits and vegetables. Let marinate for at least 4 hours or up to one week.

Middle Eastern Pickling Spice Blend

2 Tbs (30 ml) powdered dried lime*
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) nigella seeds*
1 Tbs (15 ml) anise seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground ginger
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground cinnamon

* Available in Middle Eastern specialty shops.

Combine all the ingredients and store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Makes about 1/2 cup (125 ml).

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Add this traditional spice mixture from the Persian Gulf to flavor soups, stews, and other slow-cooked dishes. Try it also rubbed on meat or poultry before grilling or roasting.

Omani Bizar A'Shuwa

2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) cardamom seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground turmeric
About 2 Tbs (30 ml) distilled vinegar

Combine all ingredients in an electric food processor and process until a thick paste is formed, adding more vinegar if necessary. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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Baharat simply means spice in Arabic, and here is a blend popular in the Persian Gulf region. It is used in meat fillings for pastries, soups, stews, and in tomato and other sauces.

Saudi Baharat

1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
2 Tbs (30 ml) black peppercorns
2 Tbs (30 ml) paprika
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) whole cloves
1 Tbs (15 ml) cardamom seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground ginger
1 tsp (5 ml) cayenne pepper
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground nutmeg

Combine the spices and grind to a fine powder. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 months. Makes about 2/3 cup (160 ml).

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Stir a teaspoon or two of this mixture into soups, stews, and curries just before serving.

Sri Lankan Curry Powder

2 Tbs (30 ml) coriander seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) uncooked rice
1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) black peppercorns
3 green cardamom pods
3 whole cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces

Combine all ingredients and roast in a dry skillet over moderate heat until the spices are dark brown. Cool and grind to a fine powder. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Use this blend from southern India to flavor rice and vegetable dishes.

Tamil Curry Powder

10 sprigs curry leaves*
1 Tbs (15 ml) sunflower or vegetable oil
3 dried hot red chili peppers
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) yellow lentils (toor dal)*
1 tsp (5 ml) black split lentils (urad dal)*

* Available in Indian specialty shops.

Strip the leaves from the stems, discard the stems, and fry the leaves in the oil in a skillet over moderate heat until they turn color. Remove the curry leaves and fry the remaining ingredients in the same skillet until they are lightly browned. Cool all the ingredients before grinding to a fine powder. Makes about 1/4 cup (60 ml).

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This mixture is usually mixed with yogurt and used to marinate meat and poultry before grilling or baking in a tandoor oven. If you want the familiar red color, add a little red food coloring.

Tandoori Masala

1/2 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
6 whole cloves
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) cumin seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) ground turmeric
2 tsp (10 ml) ground ginger
1 tsp (5 ml) cayenne pepper
1 tsp (5 ml) ground mace
1 tsp (5 ml) amchoor (mango powder)*
2 tsp (10 ml) coarse salt

* Available in Indian specialty shops.

Roast the whole spices in a dry skillet over moderate heat until they are lightly browned. Cool, then grind to a fine powder. Combine with the remaining spices and salt. To use, stir 2 to 3 teaspoons (10-15 ml) tandoori masala into 1 cup (250 ml) plain yogurt. Makes about 1/3 cup (80 ml).

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Nowhere is fiery-hot food more popular than in Thailand, and their green curry pastes are always more incendiary than their red pastes. Adjust the heat by adding more or less green chili peppers, and use green curry paste with seafood, chicken, and vegetables.

Thai Green Curry Paste

1 tsp (5 ml) shrimp paste (kapi)*
2 tsp (10 ml) coriander seeds
1 tsp (5 ml) cumin seeds
A small bunch of cilantro (coriander), leaves, stems, and roots, chopped
5-15 small hot green chili peppers, chopped
2 stalks lemon grass* (lower third only), finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh Thai basil* leaves or other basil leaves
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped galangal or ginger
1 tsp (5 ml) grated kaffir lime* peel or the peel of any other lime
4 shallots, chopped
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground nutmeg

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops.

Wrap the shrimp paste tightly in a small piece of aluminum foil and roast in a dry skillet over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Dry roast the coriander and cumin in the same skillet. Combine all ingredients in an electric food processor and process to a smooth paste. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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The name of this paste reveals its origin with Muslim traders who brought spices to Thailand, and some of the flavors are more typically Indian than Southeast Asian. Use this to season meat and poultry dishes.

Thai Massaman Curry Paste

1 tsp (5 ml) shrimp paste (kapi)*
5-10 whole dried hot red chili peppers
6 green cardamom pods
6 whole cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 Tbs (30 ml) coriander seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) vegetable oil
5 shallots, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 stalks lemon grass* (lower third only), finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped galangal or ginger
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground mace

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops.

Wrap the shrimp paste tightly in a small piece of aluminum foil and roast in a dry skillet over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Dry roast the chili peppers, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander and cumin in the same skillet. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and sauté the shallots and garlic until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the lemon grass, galangal, nutmeg, and mace and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Combine the shallot mixture with the dried spices and process in an electric food processor to a smooth paste. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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Curry pastes give flavor to virtually everything in Thailand, including soups, stews, seafood, poultry, meat, and vegetable dishes. Red curry paste has a particular affinity for beef, pork, and duck.

Thai Red Curry Paste

10 dried hot chili peppers
1 tsp (5 ml) shrimp paste (kapi)*
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
2 tsp (10 ml) cumin seeds
6 shallots, chopped
4-6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 stalks lemon grass* (lower third only), finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped galangal or ginger
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped cilantro roots*
1 tsp (5 ml) grated kaffir lime* peel or the peel of any other lime
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground black pepper

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops.

Soak the peppers in a little warm water for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, wrap the shrimp paste tightly in a small piece of aluminum foil and roast in a dry skillet over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Dry roast the coriander and cumin in the same skillet. Combine the chilies and their liquid, shrimp paste, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and remaining ingredients in an electric food processor and process to a smooth paste. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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Starters

These are frequently served as an hors d'oeuvre in Szechwan restaurants in Taiwan and Hong Kong, but you can serve them as a snack any time. If your mastery of chopsticks isn't up to the test, go ahead and pick them up with your fingers.

Anise Boiled Peanuts

2 cups (500 ml) raw peanuts* (without shells)
31/2 cups (900 ml) water
5 whole star anise**
4 tsp (20 ml) Szechwan peppercorns**
4 Tbs (60 ml) soy sauce
A 2 inch (5 cm) piece of fresh ginger root, unpeeled, cut into 3 or 4 pieces
1 tsp (5 ml) sesame oil
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1 tsp (5 ml) hot pepper flakes (optional)

* Available in Asian specialty shops and health food stores
** Available in the spice section of finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops

It is not necessary to remove the red skins from the peanuts. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered for 1 hour 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is absorbed. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Will keep for several days in the refrigerator. Makes about 3 cups (750 ml).

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This recipe is great for entertaining because it makes a large batch to feed a crowd and you can serve it directly out of the baking dish.

Bacon Horseradish Dip

3 8-oz (225 g) packages cream cheese at room temperature and cut into small pieces
12 oz (340 g) cheddar cheese, shredded
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 scallion (spring onion), green and white parts, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) half-and-half or heavy cream
3 Tbs (45 ml) prepared horseradish
1 Tbs (15 ml) Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
12 slices bacon fried crisp, drained, and crumbled

Combine all the ingredients except the bacon in an oven-proof covered baking dish. Cook covered in a preheated 300º F (155º C) oven for 2 to 21/2 hours, stirring once halfway through cooking. Stir in the bacon and serve with thinly sliced French bread, corn chips, pita wedges, or crackers. Serves 16 to 20.

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Called "popcorn" because it can be eaten by the handful, this Cajun classic is usually made with crawfish tails, but fresh or frozen small shrimp may be used by those of us who aren't lucky enough to have access to that bayou delicacy.

Cajun Popcorn

2 eggs, beaten
11/4 cups (310 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 ml) each sugar, salt, freshly ground pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
2 lbs (900 g) peeled crawfish tails or small shrimp
Vegetable oil for deep frying

Combine the eggs and milk in a small bowl. Combine the flour and seasonings in a large bowl and stir in the egg mixture. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Heat vegetable oil at a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) in a skillet over high heat until it reaches 350º F (180º C). Coat the crawfish in the batter a few at a time and fry in small batches until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes total, turning once or twice. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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I used to have to buy my Chinese five-spice powder in Asian specialty shops-or make my own-but now it is available from all of the major herb and spice producers in any American supermarket.

Chinese Five-Spice Eggs (Wu Xiang o Dan)

12 eggs at room temperature
5 bags (about 5 Tbs, 75 ml) black tea such as Orange Pekoe or China Black
1 cup (250 ml) soy sauce
2 Tbs (30 ml) Chinese five-spice powder

Place the eggs in a pot with enough cold water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm) and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the eggs one at a time with a slotted spoon, crack the shells all over by striking the eggs gently with the back of a spoon, and return the eggs to the pot. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer covered for 2 hours, adding more water if necessary. Drain and serve warm or cold. Serves 6 to 12.

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Salt and Pepper Shrimp is one of the items I frequently order in Chinese restaurants, and this simplified version makes a wonderful finger food for cocktail parties.

Chinese Salt and Pepper Shrimp

11/2 lbs (675 g) large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tsp (10 ml) salt
2 tsp (10 ml) garlic powder
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground pepper
2 Tbs (30 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil

Combine the shrimp, salt, garlic powder, and pepper in a bowl, tossing to combine well. Marinate refrigerated for 1 to 2 hours. Toss with the cornstarch. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat and fry the shrimp in small batches until done, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.

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If you have guests to impress on a modest budget, I suggest you call this dish Pâte de Foie à l'Indienne or something fancy like that. Try serving it with a small bowl of your favorite chutney for diners to spoon on top of the chopped liver.

Chopped Curried Chicken Livers

1 lb (450 g) chicken livers
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 Tbs (15 ml) curry powder, or more to taste
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

Simmer the chicken livers in enough salted water to cover for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse, and chop finely. Melt the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and stir in the curry powder. Add the onions and sauté until the onions are tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Combine the chopped livers, onion mixture, chopped eggs, salt, pepper, and optional cayenne. Serve chilled or at room temperature with toast or crackers. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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Everyone who has ever carved a jack-o'lantern has had a heap of seeds to contend with. Many people just throw them away, while many of us toast them for a savory snack. Here is a recipe that will please the adults in your family as well as the kids, and they are a natural as a cocktail snack for that up-coming Halloween party.

Curried Pumpkin Seeds

Seeds of one pumpkin
2 Tbs (30 ml) melted butter or olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) curry powder
Salt to taste
Dash of cayenne pepper (optional, or to taste)

Remove and discard the strings and flesh of the pumpkin that was removed along with the seeds. Thoroughly rinse the seeds, then dry by patting between layers of paper towels. Combine with the remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl, coating the seeds thoroughly with the spice mixture. Spread the seeds on a baking sheet and roast in a 350º F (180º C) oven for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned.

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James Beard says in introducing this recipe, "Originally a California idea, this cocktail delight has become known in other parts of the country and is especially good for summer parties in the garden or on the terrace."

Fruit and Curry Dip

3 cups (750 ml) fresh or canned chicken broth
2 Tbs (30 ml) curry powder
2 Tbs (30 ml) arrowroot
2/3 cups (160 ml) raisins, plumped in warm water, drained
2 cups toasted almonds, finely chopped
2 cups grated coconut, fresh or dried
Fresh fruits, such as apples, peaches, pears, pineapple, melons, banana, papaya, mango, apricots, figs, cut into bit-sized pieces and brushed with lemon juice

Heat the broth in a saucepan and stir in the curry powder. Mix the arrowroot with a little cold water and stir it into the broth. Add the raisins and heat the broth, stirring frequently, until thickened. Place the chopped almonds and the coconut in two bowls and arrange the fruits on a platter. Serve the curry sauce while still hot and invite your guests to dip the fruit into the curry sauce and then into the almonds and coconut.

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This dish makes a lovely addition to a buffet table, and can be prepared in advance and heated at the last minute.

German Eggs in Mustard Sauce (Eier in Senfsosse)

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream, half and half, or milk
3 Tbs (45 ml) Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
A pinch of cayenne (optional)
8-12 hard-cooked eggs, peeled

Heat the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chicken broth and cream and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Stir in the mustard, salt, pepper, and optional cayenne. Add the eggs and stir gently. Pour into a baking dish and bake in a preheated 350º F (180º C) oven until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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This ancient Greek dish is not only used as a dip and spread, but is often used as a sauce for meats as well. It makes a wonderful dip for parties that you won't find at every get-together you attend.

Greek Garlic Dip (Skordalia)

6 slices whole wheat or white bread, crusts removed
1/2 cup (125 ml) mashed potatoes
7 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped walnuts or almonds
1 cup (250 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup (125 ml) lemon juice (or to taste)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Soak the bread in water, then squeeze it to remove as much water as possible. Combine it with the potatoes, garlic, and nuts in an electric food processor and process until it becomes a smooth paste. With the processor running, add the olive oil in a thin stream. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Serve with pita bread and/or raw vegetables for dipping. Makes about 3 cups (750 ml).

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Here is a tangy and easy to make dip for your next party.

Green Peppercorn and Mustard Dip

1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) mayonnaise
1/4 cup (60 ml) Dijon mustard
1 Tbs (15 ml) water-packed green peppercorns, plus additional to taste
Salt to taste

Combine all ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Stir in additional whole peppercorns to taste and do not process further. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve with raw vegetables for dipping. Makes about 11/4 cups (310 ml).

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With only two mushrooms per serving, the size of the servings will depend on the size of the mushrooms. Don't be afraid to buy the biggest you can find because this dish is extremely low in fat and calories.

Lemon Pepper Mushrooms

8-12 large white mushrooms
2 Tbs (30 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh chives
1 Tbs (15 ml) mayonnaise
1 tsp (5 ml) grated lemon rind
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Salt and a generous amount of freshly ground pepper to taste

Remove the stems from the mushrooms and trim off and discard the tough ends. Chop the stems finely and combine with the remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl. Stuff the mushroom caps with the mixture and place on a lightly greased baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 400º F (200º C) oven until warmed through, 8 to 10 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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A platter of raw vegetables, or crudités, is the cook's best friend. They are tasty, healthy, pleasing to the eye, and easy to prepare. Here I have spiced them up with an assortment of seasoned salt mixtures.

Raw Vegetables with Four Spiced Salts

12 Tbs (180 ml) kosher salt
3 Tbs (45 ml) chili powder
3 Tbs (45 ml) curry powder
3 Tbs (45 ml) Chinese five-spice powder
1 Tbs (15 ml) cumin seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) fennel seeds
1 Tbs (15 ml) coriander seeds
1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Assorted raw vegetables, cut into bite-size pieces

Combine 3 tablespoons (45 ml) salt with the chili powder and place in a small dish or ramekin. Repeat the process with 3 tablespoons (45 ml) salt and the curry powder, and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) salt and the Chinese five-spice powder. Combine the remaining salt with the cumin, fennel, and coriander, and process in a spice grinder or food processor. Place the olive oil in a small container and arrange the vegetables on a serving platter. Dip the vegetables into the olive oil and then into one of the seasoned salts. The salts will keep indefinitely in airtight containers.

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This recipe makes a delicious "almost-no-fat-at-all" spread that can be used on bread or toast, mixed with vegetables, or in baked or mashed potatoes.

Roasted Garlic

4 large heads of garlic, trimmed to expose the tips of the cloves
3/4 (180 ml) cup chicken broth
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried rosemary
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the heads of garlic in a small shallow baking pan. Pour the chicken broth over the garlic, sprinkle with the thyme and rosemary, and season with the salt and pepper. Cover tightly with foil and bake at 400º F (200º C) for 1 hour. Cool until they can be safely handled, and squeeze the garlic out of the "paper" husk. Serve hot or cold.

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Bruschetta (pronounced brew-SKEH-tah) is traditionally grilled over hot coals, but your oven's broiler will do the job. The real secret to this recipe is the bread-use a rustic round loaf with a thick, crunchy crust if possible.

Roasted Garlic Bruschetta

2 heads garlic, roasted and peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8-12 thick slices crusty bread

Mash the garlic with enough olive oil to make a thick paste and season with salt and pepper. Grill or broil the bread until toasted on both sides. Spread the garlic paste on one side, drizzle with additional olive oil if desired, and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Most garlic lovers will agree that the only thing better than garlic is roasted garlic. This recipe makes a relatively mild spread, so if you love garlic you might want to increase the amount.

Roasted Garlic Dip

1 garlic bulb
1 tsp (5 ml) olive oil
8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, softened
2 oz (60 g) goat's cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 Tbs (30-45 ml) milk
Chopped fresh chives and/or parsley for garnish

Slice the top off the garlic bulb to reveal the cloves. Drizzle with olive oil and wrap in aluminum foil. Bake in a 400º F (200º C) oven for 45 minutes. Cool and remove garlic cloves from their skins by gently squeezing. Mash the garlic with a fork and combine with the remaining ingredients, mixing well and adding enough milk to achieve a spreadable consistency. Spoon into a serving bowl and sprinkle with chopped herbs. Serve with raw vegetables, crackers, or pita bread. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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In spite of all the jokes surrounding it, beef tongue is actually a tender, delicious, and inexpensive cut of meat. It may be difficult to find in your area, but any accommodating butcher will be able to order one for you.

Russian Beef Tongue with Horseradish Sauce (Kholodnyi Iazyk s Khrenom)

1 beef tongue (about 3 lbs, 1.4 Kg)
1 medium onion, quartered
3 Tbs (45 ml) salt
12 whole black peppercorns
3 bay (laurel) leaves
Horseradish Sauce (see below)

Wash the tongue under running hot water and trim off the fatty parts from the underside. Place in a large pot with enough water to cover completely and add the onion, salt, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 2 hours. Remove the tongue from the liquid and rinse under cold water. Allow to cool, and remove the skin with a sharp knife. Discard the skin and the cooking liquid. Wrap the tongue in aluminum foil and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours. Cut into thin slices and serve with horseradish sauce. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

Horseradish Sauce

8 oz (245 g) prepared white or red horseradish
2 Tbs (30 ml) sour cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) sugar

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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This dish requires no more effort than a little chopping and a little mixing with a spoon if you use frozen cooked shrimp.

Shrimp with Lemon-Horseradish Sauce

1 lb (450 g) cooked, peeled shrimp
1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
2 Tbs (30 ml) prepared horseradish, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) fresh lemon juice, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley, chives, dill,
or fresh herb of your choice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Arrange the shrimp attractively on a serving platter or individual plates. Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl, stirring to combine. Spoon over the shrimp and serve chilled. Serves 4 to 6.

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Seafood was abundant and readily available to early American colonists-lobsters and crabs were considered "trash" food and fed to the pigs. Smoking was an ancient method used both in Europe and the New World to preserve fish and meats, and a wide variety of smoked fish was available to the transplanted colonists.

Smoked Fish with Horseradish Sauce

For the sauce:
3/4 cup (180 ml) mayonnaise
3/4 cup (180 ml) sour cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) prepared horseradish, or to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped capers
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the fish:
1 lb (450 g) smoked fish fillets such as trout, salmon, mackerel, or herring, skin and bones removed
Lettuce leaves, thinly sliced onion, thinly sliced radishes, and lemon wedges for garnish

Blend the ingredients for the sauce until thoroughly combined and refrigerate covered until ready to serve. Arrange the smoked fish fillets on lettuce leaves, garnish with sliced onion, radishes, and lemon wedges. Serve with the horseradish sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

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These crispy little morsels are actually more of a snack than an appetizer, but they are easy, tasty, and good for you, so who cares.

Spiced Garbanzo Beans

2 cans (15 oz, 425 g each) garbanzo beans (chickpeas, ceci), rinsed and drained
1 tsp (5 ml) olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 ml) chili powder or curry powder
1 tsp (5 ml) garlic powder
1 tsp (5 ml) paprika
Cayenne pepper to taste
Salt to taste

Dry the rinsed and drained garbanzos thoroughly on paper towels. Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and sauté the garbanzos, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown lightly, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients except for the salt and stir to coat the beans. Transfer the beans to a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt. Bake in a preheated 350º F (180º C) oven, stirring once or twice, until crisp on the outside, about 20 to 25 minutes. Cool and store for up to a week in an airtight container. Makes about 2 cups (500 ml).

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Make a big batch of these tasty treats and keep them on hand throughout the holidays.

Spiced Mixed Nuts

3 cups (750 ml) whole almonds, raw cashews, pecans, and/or raw peanuts
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) chili powder or curry powder
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) sugar
Salt to taste
Place the nuts in a mixing bowl. Heat the vegetable oil in a small skillet and add the chili powder or curry powder and cayenne and stir for about 15 seconds, until aromatic. Pour this over the nuts, add the sugar and salt, and stir to combine thoroughly. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 300º F (150º C) oven for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the nuts are toasted. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 3 cups (750 ml).

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One of the beautiful things about cooking with spices is that you frequently come across unexpected flavor combinations. This appetizer/snack food is an excellent example.

Spiced Peanuts

8 oz (225 g) roasted peanuts (not dry roasted)
2 Tbs (30 ml) peanut oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped fresh ginger
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped garlic
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground coriander seed
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste (optional)
Salt to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a non-stick skillet over moderate heat and fry, stirring and shaking the skillet frequently, until the peanuts are fragrant and lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature and store in an airtight container. Makes about 1 cup (250 ml).

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The jalapeño pepper in this recipe make it stand out from the typical marinated mushroom recipe.

Spicy Marinated Mushrooms

8 oz (250 g) whole fresh mushrooms, cut into quarters
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 scallion (spring onion), white and green part, thinly sliced
1-2 jalapeño peppers (to taste), seeded and finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh basil
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry white wine or water
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon zest
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a non-reactive bowl and toss mushrooms to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Serve cold. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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The next time you have a party that needs an extra spark, try this spicy alternative to the typical party dip.

Spicy Roasted Pepper Dip

4 red bell peppers (capsicums), halved and seeded
3 slices white bread, crusts removed
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) pitted green olives
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) fresh lemon juice
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper, or more to taste
Salt to taste

Lay the pepper halves skin side up on a lightly greased baking sheet. Place about 3 inches (8 cm) under a preheated broiler and broil until the skin blisters and turns black. Place the peppers in a plastic bag and close it. Allow to cool and peel off the skin. Tear the bread into small pieces and soak in the milk for 5 minutes. Combine the peppers, bread, olives, capers, and garlic in an electric food processor and process about 4 seconds, until the dip is well mixed but still chunky. Add the remaining ingredients and process until fairly smooth. Serve with raw vegetables, crackers, or toasted pita bread. Makes about 2 cups (500 ml).

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I can't call this a vegetarian dish because of the gelatin it contains, but I will point out that it is very low in fat and calories, and it is very, very good.

Spicy Vegetable Pâté

1 envelope (about 1 Tbs, 15 ml) unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup (125 ml) cold water
1 Tbs (15 ml) butter
1 small onion, chopped
1/2 lb (225 g) sliced mushrooms
1 package (10 oz, 280 g) frozen green beans
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped walnuts
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped parsley
1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
1 Tbs (15 ml) Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) hot sauce, or to taste
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried thyme
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small saucepan and allow to soak for 5 minutes. Heat over very low heat, stirring constantly, until the gelatin is completely dissolved. Set aside. Heat the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat and sauté the onion and mushrooms until tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the green beans and cook for 5 minutes. Combine the cooked vegetables, gelatin, and remaining ingredients in an electric blender or food processor and process until pureed. Pour into a 3-cup (750 ml) mold and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Unmold and serve with crackers. Serves 6 to 8.

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The combination of sugar, pepper, and shrimp wouldn't occur to most Western cooks, but it's a natural combination in Thailand.

Sweet and Spicy Shrimp

1/2 cup (125 ml) water
1/4 cup (60 ml) packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) Thai fish sauce*
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped cilantro (coriander) stems
1 Tbs (15 ml) white peppercorns, crushed
1 lb (450 g) large shrimp in their shells
Cilantro (coriander) sprigs for garnish

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops

Combine the water, brown sugar, and fish sauce in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add the garlic, cilantro stems, and white peppercorns and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Boil until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are opaque and just cooked through, no more than 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Chill in the refrigerator for up to 1 hour, tossing the shrimp in the sauce once or twice. Drain with a slotted spoon and serve garnished with sprigs of cilantro and plenty of napkins so the diners can peel the shrimp with their fingers. Serves 4 to 6.

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Roasting the peppers gives this dish a unique smoky flavor, but you can substitute canned roasted peppers or pimientos to make this recipe even quicker and easier to prepare.

Turkish Walnut-Garlic Dip (Muhummara)

2 large red bell peppers (capsicums)
2-4 cloves garlic
2/3 cup (160 ml) walnuts
2/3 cup (160 ml) bread crumbs
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) pomegranate molasses*
2 tsp (10 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) cumin seeds
1/2 tsp (2 ml) crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

* Available in Middle Eastern specialty shops. If unavailable, substitute additional lemon juice.

Roast the peppers over an open flame or under the broiler until charred on all sides. Seal in a plastic bag for 10 minutes. Peel and seed the peppers and combine with the remaining ingredients in an electric blender or food processor. Process until the mixture is smooth. Alternately, all ingredients may be pounded together with a mortar and pestle. Refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight and serve with pita bread. Serves 4 to 6.

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Soups

Feel free to experiment with the quantities of vinegar and pepper to suit your own taste.

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup

6 cups (1.5 L) fresh or canned chicken stock
1/2 cup (125 ml) thinly sliced bok choy or Napa cabbage
1 cup (250 ml) thinly sliced shiitake, cloud ear, or other mushrooms
3 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, thinly sliced
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped ginger root
2 Tbs (30 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
2 Tbs (30 ml) water
6 to 8 oz (175-200 g) firm tofu, cut into thin strips
3/4 cup (180 ml) white vinegar, or to taste
2 tsp (10 ml) freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp (5 ml) toasted sesame oil

Bring the broth to a boil in a large saucepan and add the bok choy or cabbage, mushrooms, scallions, soy sauce, and ginger root. Combine the cornstarch and water in a small bowl and stir into the broth when it returns to the boil. Boil for 3 minutes. Add the tofu, vinegar, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. Reduce the heat to a simmer and slowly drizzle the beaten eggs into the soup, stirring gently. Remove from the heat, add the sesame oil, and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.

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Carrots and curry are a marriage made in heaven. The natural sweetness of fresh carrots is the perfect counterbalance to the spiciness of the curry.

Curried Carrot Soup

2 Tbs olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1 tsp minced, peeled fresh ginger root
1 tsp good quality curry powder
1 cup diced, peeled potato
1 lb (450 g) fresh carrots, scrubbed and sliced into 1/4 in (5 mm) rounds
5 cups low-fat chicken broth, or chicken bouillon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Fresh mint leaves, sliced into thin ribbons (chiffonade)

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat. Add the onion, ginger, and curry powder and cook for 10 minutes, until onions are soft but not brown. Add the potato, carrots, and chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cover, cooking for 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Let the soup cool a little, and then puree in batches in a blender or food processor. Return to the cooking pot and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with the mint chiffonade before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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If you like garlic, you'll love this soup. Boiling the garlic tones it down, so fans of the "stinking rose" might even like to increase the amount of garlic in this recipe.

Garlic and Egg Soup

1 head of garlic, separated into individual cloves (about 16 cloves)
6 cups (1.5 L) water
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
6 sprigs parsley
1 bay (laurel) leaf
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried sage
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 eggs
4-6 rounds of French bread, toasted
Grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese for garnish

Boil the garlic in a small amount of water for 1 minute. Drain and peel. Combine the garlic and the water, olive oil, and seasonings in a large pot and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the soup into a wide shallow saucepan, pressing the garlic to extract the juices, and gently add the eggs. Simmer (do not boil) for 4 to 8 minutes, until the eggs are done to the degree you prefer. Place a round of toast in each soup bowl and top with a poached egg. Ladle the soup over the eggs and serve with grated cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here is a tasty and unusual dish made out of a few readily available ingredients.

Garlic and Lime Soup

2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped garlic
1-2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, diced
6 cups (1.5 L) chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups (500 ml) canned or fresh tomatoes, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over moderate heat and sauté the garlic about 5 minutes, until light golden brown. Add the chicken and sauté an additional 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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I am convinced that people who don't like garlic must be from some parallel universe, and if they aren't, they should be sent to one. In this recipe the garlic satisfies with its aroma alone.

Garlic Consommé

6 cups (1.5 L) beef, chicken, or vegetable stock
12-15 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 bouquet garni made by tying together a bay leaf and sprigs of fresh thyme, parsley, and oregano
1 cup (250 ml) tomato juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) brandy or sherry (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

Bring the stock, garlic, and bouquet garni to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 1 hour. Add the remaining ingredients, stirring to combine well. Strain the soup and discard the garlic and bouquet garni. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours and adjust the seasoning before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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This is my version of a Hungarian soup usually made without meat. I hope this turkey version will please traditionalists and non-traditionalists alike.

Hungarian Turkey and Caraway Soup

3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
1 Tbs (15 ml) caraway seeds
4 Tbs (60 ml) flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 cups (1.5 L) turkey or chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) chopped or sliced cooked turkey or chicken (optional)
2 eggs, well beaten

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over moderate heat. Add the caraway seeds and the flour. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the flour is lightly browned. Add the salt, pepper, and turkey stock, and stir until well blended. Simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, for 5 to 10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add the optional turkey or chicken meat. Add about 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the hot soup to the beaten eggs, mixing well. Add this mixture to the pot, stirring to combine thoroughly, and continue to simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Serves 4 to 6.

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Rasam is a Sanskrit word meaning broth, and various types of rasam are popular throughout India, especially in the south. They are often served in cups and drunk like a consommé or tea, and they can be ladled over rice for a heartier soup version. Here is one of the ways it is made in the state of Mysore.

Indian Spicy Lentil Broth (Mysore Rasam)

1 cup (250 ml) lentils, rinsed and picked over
1 tsp (5 ml) turmeric
2 cups (500 ml) fresh or canned tomatoes, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
A 1-inch (2.5 cm) ball of tamarind pulp*
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground coriander
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper
1 tsp (5 ml) molasses or sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) ghee (see below) or vegetable oil
1 tsp (5 ml) black mustard seeds*
Chopped cilantro (coriander leaves) for garnish

* Available in finer supermarkets and in Asian and Indian specialty shops

Combine the lentils, turmeric, and 4 cups (1 L) water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered until the lentils are tender, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, puree the tomatoes, garlic, and 1/4 cup (60 ml) water in an electric blender and set aside. Soak the tamarind pulp in a small bowl with 1/4 cup (60 ml) boiling water for 15 minutes. Mash the pulp with the back of a spoon or your fingers and strain the liquid into a small bowl, squeezing the pulp to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the pulp and set the liquid aside. Puree the lentils and their liquid in an electric blender or food processor and return to the pot. Stir in 3 cups (750 ml) hot water and let stand undisturbed for 15 minutes. The pureed lentils should have sunk to the bottom of the pot, leaving the lentil broth on top. Gently pour the lentil broth into a separate bowl, leaving the lentil puree behind-this can be saved for other uses. Add enough water to the lentil broth to make about 4 cups (1 L). Add the tomato puree, tamarind juice, spices, molasses, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the ghee in a skillet over moderate heat until it is very hot. Add the mustard seeds and cover the skillet with a lid or splatter screen and cook about 5 seconds, until the sputtering stops. Add the spiced ghee to the lentil broth and stir to combine. Serve garnished with chopped cilantro. Serves 6 to 8.

Ghee

1 lb (450 g) unsalted butter

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Increase the heat and bring the butter to a boil. When the surface is completely covered with foam, stir the butter gently and reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Simmer uncovered and undisturbed for 45 minutes, or until the milk solids in the bottom of the pan have turned golden brown and the butter on top is transparent. Strain the butter through a sieve lined with linen or four layers of cheesecloth. If there are any solids in the ghee, no matter how small, strain it again until it is perfectly clear. Pour the ghee into a glass jar and seal tightly. This recipe makes about 11/2 cups (375 ml), and may be kept at room temperature for several months, or almost indefinitely refrigerated. It will congeal if refrigerated, and so must be warmed before using if liquid ghee is called for.

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You can add cooked chicken, fish, poached eggs, or boiled potatoes to this dish for added variety.

Provençal Garlic Soup (Aigo Bouido)

For the stock:
2 heads of garlic, broken into individual cloves,
unpeeled and smashed
8 cups (2 L) water
4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
6-8 sprigs parsley
2 whole cloves
1 bay (laurel) leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the thickener:
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil

For the garnish:
Slices of French bread, toasted
Shredded Gruyere, Parmesan, or Swiss cheese

Combine all the ingredients for the stock in a pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes. Strain the stock, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids and return the stock to the pot, keeping it at a simmer. Whisk the egg yolks in a small bowl until thick and sticky. Adding the olive oil a few drops at a time, continue whisking to form a mayonnaise. Immediately before serving, whisk a ladle of the hot stock into the egg mixture, then whisk the egg mixture into the stock-do not boil. Garnish by floating a slice or two of toasted French bread topped with shredded cheese in the soup. Serves 6 to 8.

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Keep several cans of good quality chicken and beef broth on hand and you can whip up healthy soups like this in a jiffy.

Quick Carrot and Caraway Soup

1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 lb (450 g) carrots, shredded
2 tsp (10 ml) caraway seeds, crushed in a mortar with a pestle
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) chicken broth
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley, chives, or basil for garnish

Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over moderate heat and sauté the onion until tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Add the carrots and caraway seeds and sauté 3 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Simmer covered until the carrots are tender, about 10 minutes. Puree the soup in an electric blender or food processor and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve hot or chilled, garnished with chopped herbs. Serves 4 to 6.

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The combination of cold temperature and spicy hotness will get your attention when you taste this soup.

Red Hot Cold Beet Soup

1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 ribs celery (including leaves), finely chopped
3 cups (750 ml) peeled and chopped fresh beets
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 tsp (2 ml) hot sauce, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) buttermilk or plain yogurt
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh dill for garnish

Heat the oil in a pot over moderate heat and sauté the onion and celery until tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients except the buttermilk and dill and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered until the beets are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. Stir in the buttermilk and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Serve garnished with chopped fresh dill. Serves 4 to 6.

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Simple garlic soups like this are eaten all over the Mediterranean. For best results, use a rich homemade stock.

Roasted Garlic Soup

4 Tbs (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
8-12 cloves garlic, peeled
1 Tbs (15 ml) paprika
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin
4-6 thick slices French or Italian bread
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) chicken, beef, or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a wide, deep saucepan over moderate heat. Sauté the garlic until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Stir in the paprika and cumin and cook for 1 minute. Remove the garlic cloves and set aside. Add the bread to the oil and brown on both sides. Remove the bread and set aside. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Chop the garlic and add to the stock. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Place a piece of bread in each of 4 to 6 serving bowls and ladle the soup over it. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Quadrucci means "little squares" in Italian, and that's exactly what you get when you slice fresh tagliatelle or fettuccine crosswise into little squares. You may substitute dried quadrucci or any other small pasta shape.

Saffron Broth with Quadrucci

6 cups (1.5 L) chicken, beef, or vegetable stock
6 oz (170 g) fresh quadrucci, or 3/4 cup (180 ml) dried
A pinch of saffron threads or powdered saffron
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring the stock to a boil over moderate heat and add the quadrucci and saffron. Simmer for 1 minute for fresh quadrucci, or according to the package directions for dried. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve garnished with chopped parsley and Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

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When people think of Spanish soups, gazpacho is usually the first one that comes to mind. This recipe is just as popular in Spain, and predates by several hundred years the tomato based gazpacho that we are familiar with.

Spanish Garlic Soup (Sopa de Ajo)

1/2 cup (125 ml) Spanish olive oil
8 cloves of garlic, peeled
3 cups (750 ml) day old bread, cut into cubes
8 cups (2 L) boiling water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh parsley
6 eggs, beaten

Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat and sauté the whole cloves of garlic until they are light golden brown, stirring frequently. Remove the garlic and set aside. Fry the bread cubes in the oil until they are golden brown and crisp. Carefully add the bread and oil to the pot with the boiling water. Add the salt, pepper, and parsley. Mash the garlic cloves and add a little of the boiling water to make a paste. Add the paste to the soup, stirring to distribute. Cover and simmer for 1 hour. Add the beaten eggs a little at a time, stirring as you do so, and continue cooking until the eggs have formed ribbons. Serves 6 to 8.

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Cold fruit soups are a tradition in Scandinavia, where they may be served as a soup course or for dessert. Be sure to use only the ripest of melons for best results.

Spiced Melon Soup

4 cups (1 L) peeled, seeded, and cubed cantaloupe (muskmelon)
1/4 cup (60 ml) orange juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) lime or lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) honey
1/2 cup non-fat milk
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cardamom
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Thin slices of lemon or lime for garnish

Combine all ingredients in an electric food processor or blender and process until smooth, adding a little more milk if necessary to adjust the consistency. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Serve chilled with a slice of lemon or lime floating in the center. Serves 4.

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I believe I have published at least a half-dozen recipes for tomato soup over the years, but never one from Morocco... until now.

Spiced Tomato Soup

1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 can (28 oz, 785 g) plum tomatoes, crushed, with their liquid
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
The juice and grated zest of 1 orange
1 Tbs (15 ml) honey
1 cinnamon stick (about 3 inches, 8 cm)
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground allspice
1/4 tsp (1 ml) freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh mint leaves for garnish

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and sauté the onion and garlic until tender but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients except for the mint and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 30 minutes. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick and puree the soup in batches in an electric blender or food processor until smooth. Serve hot or cold, garnished with chopped mint. Serves 4 to 6.

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In my book, it's hard to go wrong with Cheddar cheese. I am particularly fond of the aged, sharper varieties, and this soup will benefit from using the best quality cheese available.

Spicy Cheddar Soup

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium potato, peeled and grated
2 cups (500 ml) chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups (500 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) grated sharp Cheddar cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a saucepan over moderate heat and sauté the onion until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the grated potato, stock, and milk and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Simmer until the potato has cooked and dissolved into the mixture, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the cheese, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Stir until the cheese is melted. Serves 4 to 6.

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Many people have speculated about the first person to eat an oyster. The mystery might be solved if the oysters in question had been prepared according to today's recipe.

Spicy Oyster Bisque

4 cups (1 L) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) diced onion
2 celery stalks, cut into 1 inch (2 cm) pieces
1 parsley sprig
1 bay (laurel) leaf
4 Tbs (60 ml) melted butter
4 Tbs (60 ml) all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
Salt to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg
12 large, raw oysters, shucked and liquor reserved
Chopped chives for garnish

Combine the milk, onion, celery, parsley, and bay leaf in a saucepan. Bring almost to the boil over moderate heat. Strain and reserve the milk. In another saucepan over moderate heat, blend the butter with the flour, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Add the reserved milk and stir until thickened and the mixture almost boils. Add the oysters and reserved liquor and heat an additional 2 minutes, just until the oysters are warmed through and their edges begin to curl. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped chives. Serves 4 to 6.

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If you live in the United States you have probably never eaten a fresh (never frozen) shrimp unless you own a shrimp boat or know someone who does. The shrimp in your fish market's cases was almost surely delivered frozen and thawed in the store, so my advice is to buy your shrimp frozen and thaw it at home immediately before you use it. You can even add them frozen to some dishes, including this Vietnamese soup.

Vietnamese Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup

6-12 oz (170-335 g) thin rice noodles
5 cups (1.25 L) Vietnamese-style chicken stock (see below)
1 stalk lemon grass, bruised and coarsely chopped, or 1/2 tsp (2 ml) grated lemon zest
12-16 oz (335-450 g) shrimp, peeled, shells reserved
Hot red or green chile pepper such as Thai bird, hontaka, or jalapeño, finely chopped, to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) lime juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cups (500 ml) bean sprouts
2 scallions (spring onions), thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh basil leaves (Thai basil of possible)
1/2 cup (125 ml) cilantro (coriander) leaves

Bring 1 gallon (4 L) of water to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the noodles. Soak until the noodles are tender, 5 to 10 minutes (see package directions). Drain and divide the noodles between 4 to 6 individual soup bowls. Meanwhile, simmer the stock, lemon grass, and reserved shrimp shells in a large pot over moderate heat for 15 minutes. Add the hot chile and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain, discard the solids, and return the stock to the pot. Immediately before serving, bring the stock to a simmer and add the shrimp, lime juice, salt, and pepper and cook just until the shrimp are firm and opaque, about 2 minutes. Divide the beans sprouts and scallions between the soup bowls and ladle the soup into the bowls. Garnish with the fresh herbs. Serves 4 to 6.

Vietnamese-Style Chicken Stock

5 cups (1.25 L) canned chicken broth
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled
A 2-inch (5 cm) piece of ginger, thinly sliced
2 whole star anise*
3 Tbs (45 ml) Asian fish sauce*
1 Tbs (15 ml) soy sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) sugar

* Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops

Combine all ingredients and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Simmer covered for 20 minutes. Strain, discard the solids, and return the stock to the pot. Keep warm until ready to use, or store refrigerated or frozen. Makes about 5 cups (1.25 L).

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